Unfolding like a study in contrasts, the Ann Demeulemeester Spring-Summer 2026 collection was shaped by Stefano Gallici’s thoughtful imagination. Gallici, known for his literary curiosity, brought together fragments from his readings and personal passions to define a season that felt nostalgic yet refreshingly direct.
At the heart of his vision was a dialogue between tenderness and defiance. Gallici, who recently revisited Pride and Prejudice alongside Danny Sugerman’s Wonderland Avenue, explored how love and rebellion can share the same pulse. This tension translated into clothing that embraced fragility without losing strength. Soft pink brocades with a faint shimmer evoked the faded hotel rooms of the 1970s, and leather biker jackets and coats conveyed the weight of lived experience. The contrast between delicate lace and a raw attitude framed the mood of the show.
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Once again held at the Refectoire des Cordeliers in Paris, the setting’s stone walls and shadowed air mirrored the brand’s poetic austerity. Yet, Gallici has clearly moved beyond imitating the founder’s legacy. His vision speaks to a generation that seeks authenticity over adherence to codes. The collection, titled “The Solitary One: A Love Story in Rebellion,” reflected that idea – a conversation between solitude and connection, and between past references and new intentions.
The opening looks confirmed his growing confidence. Tailored coats with elongated silhouettes nodded to Victorian elegance, while loose nightgown-style dresses exuded ease. The unexpected appearance of silk basketball jerseys and shorts reminded the audience of Gallici’s fondness for sports and movement. He treated these athletic elements with refinement, transforming courtwear into fragile yet confident attire. The result was never forced, only quietly daring.
Corsetry returned in reimagined forms: cotton bralettes layered over crisp shirts; waistcoats paired with gauzy dresses; and regimental jackets combined with denim and leather trousers tucked into sturdy boots. A standout piece was a white leather jacket laser-cut like lace from an old handkerchief, which summed up his approach: craftsmanship meeting emotion.
The final all-black silhouettes anchored the show in familiar Demeulemeester darkness yet carried a lighter energy. This shift may unsettle traditionalists, but it signals the brand’s desire to evolve. The presence of younger figures, such as Jenna Ortega and Jamie Campbell Bower, sitting and walking in the show suggested that the brand’s quiet revolution is finding its audience.
