Joseph Altuzarra celebrated 15 years at the helm of his eponymous label with a runway show unlike any other. This season, it was all about intimacy and exclusivity. Just 70 guests, nestled in his studio, witnessed a collection that transcended mere trends, offering a glimpse into the future of men’s fashion.
Gone were the days of overarching narratives and coordinated sets. Instead, Altuzarra presented a treasure trove of individual pieces, each a masterpiece in its own right. Imagine a black faux-fur coat embellished with whimsical silver birds, a tuxedo shirt shimmering with bugle beads, or a sheer lace dress with a triangle crystal bra – garments worthy of Hollywood royalty or a glamorous soirée.
“Looking dressed” was the guiding principle for Fall/Winter 2024. Inspiration drew from diverse sources – the elegance of English riding apparel, the Art Deco allure of Tamara de Lempicka, and even the romanticism of Princess Diana. Ballet and circus influences added a touch of whimsy with cozy legwarmers, harlequin patterns, and playful Pierrot collars.
Outerwear was a highlight, featuring a chocolate brown double-faced cashmere trench, a classic camel toggle coat, and a dashing caped cavalry twill jacket, all paired with jodhpurs or flowing skirts. For a more relaxed vibe, silk tanks and bias-cut pieces came in soft ivory tones, complemented by boiled wool jackets or shearling bombers.
The hero piece of the season? A dress adorned with an abstract equestrian brushstroke print, inspired by vintage Parisian scarves. Every detail exuded meticulous craftsmanship, from the covered buttons to the hand-hammered hardware. Altuzarra emphasized, “We knew people would be close to the clothes, so we wanted to showcase their exceptional quality.”
Do you use Google News? You can follow your favorite media. Follow Fashionotography on Google News, by RSS or on Flipboard.
This intimate presentation wasn’t just a stylistic choice; it was a personal one. Altuzarra handpicked 100 guests, including family and longtime supporters, creating a warm and familial atmosphere. “It wasn’t about stories,” he confessed, “but about pieces that resonated with me.”
This reset was evident. Gone were the echoes of past seasons, replaced by fresh ideas fueled by Altuzarra’s own passions. Look 1, a majestic mac with a storm-flap back, directly reflected his newfound love for competitive show jumping. Equestrian influences continued in silk-twill sundresses with abstract prints and the inclusion of jodhpurs.
Tamara de Lempicka’s art seemed to inspire a shimmering crystal-and-lace flapper dress, while whimsical Pierrot ruffs adorned knits and blouses, often juxtaposed with masculine blazers and peacoats. Variety ruled, with knit pants in various lengths and pointy ballet flats completing the picture.
“Imagine walking into someone’s carefully curated wardrobe,” Altuzarra mused, “where each piece speaks volumes about their personality.” And that’s precisely what guests experienced. From sequined Aran sweaters to playful harlequin lace blouses, the collection offered an array of statement pieces grounded in everyday wearability.
Read more: Saint Laurent opens bookshop in Paris
©Photo: Altuzarra
