The iconic spiral of New York’s Guggenheim Museum provided an unforgettable backdrop for Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa Winter/Spring 2025 collection, a heartfelt tribute to American fashion through a distinctly European lens. In this landmark show, the first ever held in the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed space, Mulier delved into the archives of American design, reinterpreting signature elements with Alaïa‘s trademark precision and innovation.
The collection pulsated with a vibrant energy that reflected the dynamism of the city itself. Drawing inspiration from his own time living and working in New York, Mulier imbued the collection with a sense of relaxed sophistication, a departure from the more formal luxury often associated with European fashion.
The spirit of American sportswear resonated throughout, with nods to iconic figures such as Halston and Charles James. Draped jerseys evoked Halston’s effortless elegance, while sculpted puffer jackets paid homage to James’ mastery of form. Mulier reimagined these classic silhouettes using intricate techniques more akin to jewelry-making than traditional garment construction. Micro-pleated dresses, a continuation of a theme explored in his previous collection, were designed to snap onto the body like exquisite, wearable sculptures.
The color palette reinforced the vibrant spirit of the collection. Ice cream hues lent a playful air to midriff-baring separates and flirty miniskirts, while rich jewel tones lent an aura of understated glamour to evening wear. A standout example was a series of stunning pleated jersey gowns that clung to the body with a gravity-defying grace that spoke to the collection’s artful balance of structure and fluidity.
Mulier’s love of American fashion extended beyond specific designers to include a broader appreciation for the country’s unique approach to dressing. He embraced the concept of “ease” as a defining characteristic of American style, a quality he skillfully translated into garments that exuded both comfort and sophistication. The collection celebrated the freedom and individuality synonymous with New York, a sentiment underscored by the choice of Kendall Jenner, a quintessential modern American style icon, as the show’s lead model.
The decision to stage the show at the Guggenheim itself was sparked by a serendipitous connection. Mulier’s Summer/Fall 2024 collection included two striking “spiral dresses” whose shapes echoed the museum’s iconic architecture. This shared motif created a natural synergy, culminating in a fashion extravaganza as memorable for its setting as for the clothes themselves.
©Photo: Alaïa