Steven Stokey-Daley’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection strikes a chord between tradition and rebellion, channeling the spirit of British icons like Kate Bush, Maggie Smith and Marianne Faithfull into 41 coed looks that feel both nostalgic and fresh. The designer’s signature blend of utilitarian tailoring and whimsical storytelling takes center stage, offering outerwear-heavy ensembles that balance practicality with emotional depth – a hallmark of S.S.Daley‘s evolving vision.
The lineup brims with reimagined classics: leather-lapel trench coats, cropped duffle jackets and boxy bombers in burgundy, cream and plaid. A standout burgundy sweater bears the embroidered phrase “Stay Faithful to Marianne,” honoring the late singer while avoiding overt sentimentality. Stokey-Daley’s nods to British cultural history feel deliberate yet playful, particularly in mod-inspired leather-patched jackets and tailored Bermuda shorts paired with structured blazers.
Hand-felted dresses and trenches mimic the brushstrokes of 1920s Scottish colorists like Francis Cadell, transforming wool into wearable landscapes. This artisanal approach extends to screen-printed t-shirts featuring London landmarks and pastoral scenes of ducks and dogs-a subtle nod to Hampstead Heath, the park near investor Harry Styles‘ London home.
The models walked to a playlist that included Pet Shop Boys’ “West End Girls” and Marianne Faithfull’s haunting “The Ballad of Lucy Jordan,” underscoring the collection’s cross-generational appeal. The musical choices reflect Stokey-Daley’s knack for bridging eras, just as his garments fuse school-uniform checks with gender-fluid silhouettes.
Though rooted in menswear, the collection shines in womenswear: cropped bombers with exaggerated collars, ruffled blouses beneath austere peacoats, and A-line skirts cut for movement. “Designing for women feels natural,” Stokey-Daley noted, crediting his female-dominated inner circle for inspiring this expansion.
Amid rumors of Daniel Lee’s possible departure from Burberry, critics noted the show’s polished take on British tropes-duck-print knits, parliamentary checks-as a quiet pitch for creative leadership. But Stokey-Daley’s focus remains unwavering: “growing in a shrinking climate,” through clothes that prioritize character over trends.
©Photo: S.S.Daley