Joseph Altuzarra understands something fundamental about fashion right now. When temperatures plummet and stay low for days on end, the idea of a seasonless wardrobe becomes less appealing, and the need for a coat that actually keeps you warm becomes more pressing. His Fall 2026 collection, which featured an impressive lineup of substantial and special outerwear, arrived during New York Fashion Week with impeccable timing.
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| 🧥 Outerwear is the strategic centerpiece of Altuzarra Fall 2026 🐑 Shearling bombers and sculptural jackets drive visual impact 🎨 Spanish art and cinema shape the collection’s emotional tone 👖 Leather carpenter pants emerged as an immediate commercial hit 📖 Duality, inspired by How to Be Both, structures the collection’s narrative 🏙 Presented at New York Fashion Week Fall 2026 |
The designer presented leather bombers lined with shearling, substantial toggle coats, and cocoon-shaped peacoats with sweeping lapels. One particular piece stood out: a brushed shearling jacket with a leather torso that felt like a wearable sculpture. Altuzarra has been refining his approach to outerwear for several seasons, and this collection represented his strongest statement on the subject yet.
Much of what appeared on the runway was informed by Velázquez paintings and Spanish cinema. Altuzarra spent time studying Renaissance art and films by Pedro Almodóvar and Luis Buñuel, drawn to their heightened emotions and rich color palettes. These references translated into flamenco-inspired skirts with undulating hems. Some were constructed from lightweight chiffon and georgette; others had dramatic tiers that moved when the models walked. He paired these with sturdy peacoats, creating a tension between the delicate and the robust.
Dresses remain Altuzarra’s largest category, and he gave them considerable attention. Sprays of tubular fringe decorated the neckline and hip of a simple jersey dress, adding movement without overwhelming the silhouette. Another group featured body prints inspired by Yves Klein’s work. These prints were rendered in sequins and beads that caught the light. Chantilly lace appeared on several pieces, lending romantic elegance to the collection’s more grounded elements.
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Beyond the showpieces, Altuzarra presented clothes that women would actually wear. Turtlenecks had elongated backs that draped like capes. Scarf skirts in turf green featured Balearic fishnet prints. Leather carpenter pants were so popular that the models requested their own pairs, prompting the designer to produce them for the entire cast. This style also appeared in suede, cotton canvas, and denim, suggesting that Altuzarra knew he had a hit on his hands.
Showgoers found Ali Smith’s novel How to Be Both on their seats. The book is structured in two interconnected parts that can be read in either order. One section follows a contemporary teenager; the other follows an Italian Renaissance artist. Altuzarra said the book’s duality informed his approach this season. He aimed to add drama to everyday women’s clothing, finding ways to make the ordinary feel elevated without sacrificing wearability.
