French fashion house Rochas presents its Fall/Winter 2025 collection amidst a significant milestone celebrating 100 years of sartorial excellence. Alessandro Vigilante presents his latest vision for Rochas Fall/Winter 2025 with designs inspired by grand soirées and the sophisticated aesthetic of Hélène Rochas, the founder’s third wife, who had a profound influence on the current designer’s creative direction.
Walking through the presentation is like receiving an exclusive invitation to experience fashion that honors heritage while embracing contemporary sensibilities. The collection pays homage to a legendary event hosted by Hélène at the Grand Cascade de Bois de Boulogne in 1965, transforming historical references into modern expressions of femininity.
“I wanted to create a free space where women could relax and be themselves,” says Vigilante, explaining his approach to the collection. His philosophy is materialized through voluminous silhouettes that offer both protection and freedom, allowing the wearer to express individuality without restriction.
What sets this collection apart is Vigilante’s extraordinary exploration of texture. Brushed wool sits next to lustrous silk, while fluid velvet contrasts with thick ottoman fabric. A particularly striking shimmering lace features unfinished threads that create a subtle fuzzy effect, adding dimension and intrigue to several pieces.
One of the most intriguing elements is a crisp, crinkled gold polyester fabric reminiscent of chocolate wrappers. This innovative material elevates otherwise straightforward silhouettes such as cropped jackets and pencil skirts, demonstrating how unexpected textures can transform familiar shapes.
The collection presents a range of drama from subtle to bold. At one end are practical, deconstructed pinstripe trousers embellished with jeweled buttons that create elegant draping. At the other end are statement pieces like balloon-shaped sleeveless black dresses and cocooning feathery coats paired with voluminous Mikado silk skirts.
Chocolate brown emerges as the season’s defining color, appearing in a variety of pieces including luxurious crocodile-print opera coats and jackets with generous, rounded sleeves. This rich shade offers warmth and sophistication – a perfect complement to fall wardrobes.
References to Rochas’ heritage appear throughout the collection, particularly in cocoon shapes, strong shoulders and square necklines that evoke archival designs. The swan motif serves as a subtle recurring theme, referencing the iconic Bird dress designed by Marcel Rochas in 1934.
What works remarkably well are Vigilante’s precisely cut jackets, whether in crisp white with dropped lapels or gold jacquard with a texture as interesting as its silhouette. These pieces represent the collection’s strength in focusing on refined simplicity rather than excessive embellishment.
For those seeking wearable options, the collection offers sharp trousers and hourglass dresses that translate runway concepts into everyday elegance. More adventurous fashion enthusiasts may be drawn to pencil skirts embellished with sinuous ruffles, although some observers noted that certain pieces would benefit from more restraint in their embellishments.
The link between fashion and fragrance is evident in the matchbook motifs associated with Rochas’ latest fragrance, Audace, a fruity-floral scent that reinterprets a 1970s classic for today’s consumers. This strategic direction highlights the growth potential of the brand beyond its current position in the Interparfums portfolio.
As Rochas celebrates its centennial, Vigilante demonstrates a growing confidence in its vision as it negotiates between historical reverence and forward momentum. The Fall/Winter 2025 collection reveals a designer increasingly comfortable in his role at the historic house, finding his authentic expression while respecting the brand’s rich heritage.
For the brand to reach its full potential, industry observers suggest that Vigilante must continue to develop its distinctive voice beyond historical references. The collection shows a promising evolution in this direction, offering a glimpse of what could be a compelling new chapter for the centennial fashion house.
©Photo: Rochas
