Australian designer Christopher Esber presented his Fall/Winter 2025 collection at the Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week, marking his third presentation in the fashion capital. The Fall/Winter 2025 line represents a significant evolution for the designer, who has expanded his repertoire following his prestigious ANDAM win last year.
The collection reveals a sophisticated sensibility through thoughtfully constructed pieces that challenge conventional fashion boundaries. Esber originally envisioned sepia-toned light filtering through coffee-colored transparent panels, but the Parisian weather had other plans. Nevertheless, the designs spoke eloquently without atmospheric assistance.
Inspired by flamenco movements, Esber created a wardrobe that brilliantly fuses seemingly disparate elements – 1920s interior aesthetics with Japanese shibari techniques. This unexpected pairing is manifested through intricate cord embellishments that create mesmerizing movement when worn.
Silhouettes range from jersey minidresses paired with flowing tortoiseshell-printed chiffon skirts to asymmetrical crochet pieces suitable for multiple settings. The collection shows significant technical advances, with dresses made of satin tubes arranged in precise formations and Parisian-inspired striped crochet paired with wide-leg trousers.
Collaboration with French ateliers proved instrumental in the development of custom textiles and complex embellishment techniques. Corduroy gets the couture treatment with billowing volume and velvety opulence, while hand-stitched silk rouleaus mimic corduroy rows, elevating everyday fabrics into the extraordinary.
Fabric manipulation appears throughout the collection, with weighted fabrics strategically gathered. Fine jersey constructions give way to heavy twills and velvets, creating enveloping sensations. Exaggerated trouser panels feature belting at the waist to control gathering, creating sculptural forms with practical wearability.
Dark charcoal wool shirts layered with ruffled tiers showcase bonded self-tassels, while fine jersey pieces incorporate concave tiered shapes – reimagining traditional flamenco skirts without directly copying them. Low-waisted draped gowns with deep armholes evoke 1920s columnar silhouettes while revealing sophisticated shibari knots underneath, creating an intriguing tension between structure and fluidity.
The color palette emphasizes effortless elegance: Deer navy interacts with mustard tortoiseshell, fuchsia meets navy wallpaper print on cream silk, rich purples and blacks gain lightness alongside sage greens and pale gray blues. Liquorice, maroon and espresso leathers add depth, while metallic laces intertwine with metal accents against plush velvets.
Part of what makes this collection different from previous seasons is the choice of materials. Typically known for his breezy aesthetic, Esber has now embraced heavier, more opulent textiles – bringing urban sophistication and substantial presence to his design language. The interplay between concealment and revelation offers fresh interpretations of his signature style, embodying tension and structure through thoughtful design choices.
©Photo: Christopher Esber