Milan’s Palazzo Donizetti became a stage for timeless elegance as Alberta Ferrati presented its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, a celebration of progressive romance under the creative direction of Lorenzo Serafini. Marking his debut since taking over from founder Alberta Ferretti, Serafini honored the brand’s heritage while injecting a modern sensibility that resonates with both tradition and innovation.
The show opened with models gliding through the palazzo’s stuccoed halls, draped in floaty chiffon gowns adorned with delicate petal motifs. These pieces set the tone for a collection rooted in femininity – soft yet assertive, discreet yet evocative. Serafini’s vision, titled “Progressive Romantics,” rejected nostalgia in favor of evolving Ferretti’s original message: empowering women to embrace their sensuality without compromise. “Sensuality over sexiness,” he insisted, a philosophy reflected in designs that balanced strength and softness.
Key silhouettes included reimagined smoking pantsuits paired with capes, raw-edge cashmere blazers, and stretch-knit skirts layered over chiffon balloon underskirts. The interplay of textures-sheer georgette, torchon-detailed silk, and metallic sparkle plaque-created depth without weight. A standout white column dress cascaded with embroidered black jets forming abstract florals, while eggplant-colored gowns featured architectural cutouts that celebrated the female form.
Serafini’s decades of experience at brands such as Philosophy and Dolce & Gabbana shone through in his meticulous tailoring. Double cashmere coats enveloped sheer gowns like protective armor, while hand-pleated chiffon gowns – one of which required 45 yards of fabric – embodied effortless grandeur. Details such as resin buttons made by a Cypriot artist and brooding orchid motifs added artisanal touches that underscored the craftsmanship of parent company Aeffe.
The Palazzo Donizetti, Ferretti’s longtime showroom, lent an air of intimate authenticity. Its return after years of absence symbolized Serafini’s respect for the brand’s heritage. Founder Alberta Ferretti, who was in attendance, watched as her successor took a bow, a poignant moment that was met with applause. The final embrace between the two designers underscored a seamless transition that combined reverence with renewal.
The Fall/Winter 2025 palette moved from earthy rusts to deep purples, accented with metallic sheen that reflected the duality of modern romance. Draped silks and deconstructed wools maintained fluidity, ensuring wearability without sacrificing sophistication. Serafini’s focus on “lightness” translated into garments that moved with the body, from chevron-patterned skirts to trains that whispered rather than roared.
©Photo: Alberta Ferretti