As A-COLD-WALL* enters a new era under the guidance of design director William Slocombe and brand director Liam Hassimi, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection draws inspiration from the rebellious spirit of pirate radio culture. The presentation in Milan Fashion Week showcased a lo-res montage of lookbook and “show” images, featuring iconic figures such as Don Letts, Jason Williamson, and drum ‘n’ bass legend Goldie, who personalized his double-treated denim pants with the name of his pioneering record label, Metalheadz.
The collection’s technically treated future tailoring and ornately cinched urban utility pieces were adorned with jaggedly angular tape seaming, derived from imagery of illicit antennae used to broadcast unlicensed radio in the pre-digital age. This nod to pirate radio culture, particularly the groundbreaking album “Timeless” by Goldie, which broke through to the UK mainstream via stations like Kool FM, Pulse, and Rush, added depth to the brand’s narrative.
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Slocombe and Hassimi showcased metal-shot fabrics in weathered, cloudy tones, encasing loosely volumized abstract tactical vests – a signature of the brand. An intriguing black future-boucle dress and jacket, made from a root protein-derived material by Japan’s Sbider, added an innovative touch to the collection. Double brim caps and cowl-like hoods served as functional tools for evading face recognition software and pirate radio enforcement officers, further emphasizing the dystopic minimalism that has become synonymous with A-COLD-WALL*.
The collection seamlessly blended military and functional sporting apparel, creating a serious and severe aesthetic that aligns with the brand’s future-anticipating DNA. The credits list also featured a shout-out to Johanna Parv, an innovative thinker in the space, hinting at the forward-thinking approach of A-COLD-WALL*’s new leadership.
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©Photo: A-COLD-WALL*