The H&M x Glenn Martens collaboration arrives on October 30th, marking a significant moment for accessible fashion. Martens, a Belgian designer who has consistently redefined contemporary design through his work at Y/Project and Diesel, now brings his distinctive vision to a global audience.
This partnership is genuinely novel. Martens approached the project by thoroughly exploring H&M’s archives and selecting pieces that customers repeatedly return to. He then transformed these familiar items – T-shirts, checked shirts, bomber jackets, and jeans – into something entirely fresh.
The designer’s methodology reveals his intellectual rigor. Rather than adding his signature to existing designs, he studied what makes certain garments indispensable. Why do we reach for specific pieces? What makes a shirt essential rather than merely pleasant? These questions drove his creative process.
The resulting collection includes womenswear, menswear, unisex pieces, and accessories. Trompe l’œil effects appear throughout the collection, challenging our perception of familiar forms. Many pieces are designed for customization, with foil and wiring allowing wearers to reshape garments into sculptural forms. The clothes become malleable and responsive to individual preferences.
“I see this collection as a big family of garments, all of which have multiple purposes and personalities. Like people, they grow and change each day. I am always interested in the clothes that we really live in, and the idea of archetypes and wardrobe staples was the starting point for this special, joyful project with H&M,” Glenn Martens declared.
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This statement encapsulates his democratic approach to fashion. Martens doesn’t create clothes for contemplation alone. His designs demand interaction, evolution, and transformation through wear.
Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s creative advisor, recognizes the collection’s significance. “I truly think this is one of the most creative collaborations we have ever done. Glenn is a very talented radical thinker, and these designs play with archetypes and the essence of getting dressed each day. The campaign is special — already iconic,” she said.
The campaign itself deserves attention. Martens conceived it as a family portrait, though markedly different from conventional interpretations. Joanna Lumley and Richard E. Grant anchor the cast, surrounded by up-and-coming talent. The British acting icons bring gravitas and playfulness—qualities that mirror the collection itself.
Lumley’s involvement feels particularly apt. Her career has demonstrated that style transcends conventional boundaries. It was great fun to be part of Glenn Martens‘ and H&M’s special family portrait. I always say that the best fashion is rule-breaking — people should wear whatever they want — and I admire Glenn’s daring spirit and his ability to twist things in unusual ways,” said Lumley.
Grant echoed this sentiment. “What a special opportunity to team up with Glenn Martens, Joanna Lumley, and H&M! I love the spirit of the collection — everyone can wear it in their own way and express their personality. The shoot was a riot! I enjoyed playing the patriarch of this stylish yet motley crew!” said Grant.
The British references throughout the campaign and collection reflect Martens’s fascination with UK humor and culture. These aren’t just superficial nods, but rather genuine expressions of the influences that have shaped his aesthetic vision.
Humor, often undervalued in fashion criticism, proves central here. Martens understands that clothes can be serious without being solemn. His designs invite experimentation and even mischief. The ability to reshape a garment through wiring is not merely a technical innovation; it’s an invitation to play.
The collection also acknowledges Martens’s history. References to his Y/Project work appear in boots and prints, creating a dialogue between his past achievements and his current explorations. For those familiar with his earlier work, these moments offer recognition. For newcomers, they provide entry points into a broader creative vision.
H&M’s collaborative history includes partnerships with luxury houses and established designers. This project, however, feels distinct. Martens brings the conceptual depth typically reserved for avant-garde runways while maintaining genuine wearability. The pieces are meant for everyday use rather than precious preservation.
The London event planned to celebrate the launch seems fitting. The city’s influence on Martens’s work deserves acknowledgment on its home turf. Details are forthcoming, but expectations are high.
What makes this collaboration particularly compelling is its accessibility. Martens’s work, which was previously only available at higher price points, is now accessible to those who couldn’t afford it before. Democratization, often claimed but rarely achieved in fashion, actually occurs here.
The collection will be available in select stores and online at hm.com starting October 30th.
