Set against the backdrop of the New York skyline, Jonathan Simkhai‘s Fall/Winter 2025 show breathes new life into the timeless appeal of vintage fashion, fusing rugged textures with refined elegance. Inspired by early mornings at Pasadena’s Rose Bowl flea market, the designer reimagines storied garments through a lens of modern sophistication. His latest offering balances distressed knits, oversized leather jackets, and crystal-embellished details to create looks that feel both lived-in and luxe.
Guests at the Hudson Yards presentation experienced this duality firsthand. Models walked through a raw, industrial space in purposefully scuffed motoboots, boxy blazers with loose threads, and cashmere sweaters frayed at the hem. These deliberate imperfections celebrated craftsmanship while evoking a sense of history. Eveningwear shimmered with brooches sourced from Thai markets and flea markets, like a final gown dripping with crystals – proof that Simkhai’s vision encompasses gritty authenticity and unapologetic glamour.
The designer’s fascination with the past isn’t just nostalgia. “Clothes carry stories,” he noted, pointing to military jackets and antique jewelry that sparked his creativity. That philosophy translated to outerwear, with white fringe cascading over leather separates and plaid coats embellished with black crystals. Even hot knit shorts and cardigans, unexpectedly paired, gained depth with meticulous embellishments. When you walk away,” said Simkhai, “you should feel as striking from behind as you do from the front.
Practicality met fantasy in riding boots treated to mimic wear and tear, while oversized leather pants draped effortlessly next to a sheer, crystal-encrusted tank. The collection avoided feeling overly theatrical, instead grounding its drama in wearable silhouettes. A double-layered bustier-skirt combo, for instance, showcased raw edges as a quiet nod to resilience.
Simkhai’s work resonates beyond aesthetics. He designs for moments when confidence falters, offering armor-like jackets or pants that inspire a rallying spirit. “Some days, putting on the right piece makes all the difference,” he shared. Fall/Winter 2025 achieves that balance – rugged yet polished, nostalgic yet forward-thinking.
©Photo: Simkhai