Chitose Abe’s latest collection for Sacai, unveiled for Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 and Women’s Pre-Fall 2025, ventures boldly into untamed territory. Inspired by Maurice Sendak’s beloved story “Where the Wild Things Are,” Abe creates a playful yet sophisticated line that captures the imagination.
The runway showcased a delightful fusion of textures and silhouettes, where oversized sleeves blossomed with faux fur and boots escalated to almost mythical proportions. Thick layers of fabric enveloped the models, evoking a sense of warmth and adventure appropriate for a world seeking both comfort and whimsical escapism.
Abe collaborated with Carhartt WIP, Ugg and J.M. Weston, bringing together an eclectic mix of influences. The Carhartt elements introduced rugged utility reimagined through Sacai’s distinctive lens. Ugg contributed a range of footwear, from thigh-high boots to fleece-lined loafers, that reflected the adventurous spirit of the collection. J.M. Weston added a touch of classic French elegance with cow-print double-sole derbies that grounded the otherwise fantastical ensembles.
The collection played with exaggerated proportions, infusing garments with oversized pockets, voluminous peplums and substantial hems trimmed with shaggy fur. Coats were lined with shearling, which not only provided warmth but a tactile richness that appealed to the senses. Puffer fabrics cleverly added dimension to cape jackets, while chunky floral embroidery elevated knitwear into three-dimensional works of art.
Sacai’s mastery of contrast was evident in the mix of materials and patterns. Technical gear adorned with desert landscapes seamlessly transitioned into mid-winter essentials. Suits in classic checks overlapped with innovative technical wear, while carpet-inspired patterns flowed into pleated silk skirts, creating a harmonious balance between the familiar and the avant-garde.
Accessories were not an afterthought, but an integral part of the collection’s narrative. Multifunctional backpacks adorned with carabiners and beaded chains carried an array of Sacai-branded microbags and water bottles. These details enhanced the sense of a journey into the wild, blending practicality with style.
A standout was the use of knit fur, a creative approach that mimicked the look of shaggy pelts without the use of real fur. This material appeared in scarves, sleeves and even as accents on hooded jackets, emphasizing the collection’s theme while remaining conscious of modern ethical considerations.
Abe’s inventive spirit shone through, transforming familiar motifs into something extraordinary. The embrace of characters from Sendak’s story appeared subtly in select pieces, serving as a nod to the collection’s muse without overshadowing the overall design.
The eveningwear segment offered a sophisticated highlight. Flowing pants with generous side pockets echoed the opening looks, creating a visual thread throughout the show. The fusion of Sacai’s innovation with J.M. Weston’s timeless craftsmanship resulted in ensembles that were both contemporary and timeless.
©Photo: Sacai
