Perched atop the Space House, with London below like a tapestry of concrete and glass, Roksanda Ilinčić unveiled her Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Inspired by the environmental art of Agnes Denes, known for her provocative wheat field planted in the heart of 1980s Manhattan, Ilinčić sought to juxtapose the serenity of nature with the imposing presence of urban landscapes. The theme resonated deeply with the designer, who grew up in the wheat fields surrounding Belgrade, where the Sava and Danube rivers converge.
The collection found its footing in the strength of sharp tailoring. Long, slim jackets and coats, some with intriguing necklines, spoke to a modern, architectural sensibility. But it was the free-flowing, spirited pieces that truly embodied the core of the collection. Ethereal off-the-shoulder gowns draped effortlessly, while others burst with colorful, cellophane-like fringes that whispered with every step. Vibrant abstract prints, reminiscent of aerial views of the Belgrade countryside, adorned flowing silhouettes, their hues echoing the rich palette of nature. Melon, mint, aubergine and egg yolk – a symphony of colors typically found in fields and farms – were translated onto luxurious taffeta dresses, some with oversized bows and dramatic trains.
This season, Roksanda Ilincic delivered more than just clothes; she offered a poignant reflection on our relationship with the environment and the enduring allure of nature’s tranquility. The collection struck a balance between structured elegance and unbridled joy, all while showcasing the designer’s deep connection to her roots.
©Photo: Roksanda
