Roksanda’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection transforms fashion into a dialogue between art and sustainability, inspired by sculptor Phyllida Barlow’s inventive use of discarded materials. Presented on the 17th floor of London’s Space House, the show blended oversized silhouettes, unexpected textures and bold color clashes, positioning Roksanda Ilinčić as a designer who bridges avant-garde creativity with wearable elegance.
linčić’s latest work embraced the ethos of reclamation, repurposing remnants from her Spring/Summer 2023 line – melted wool, raffia, viscose, and stiff sponge squares – to create sculptural final pieces. Models glided in skirts and tops adorned with floating sponge panels, their edges frayed to mimic the playful chaos of Silly String. Delicate fil coupe threads hung freely from dresses and coats, evolving into unique shapes with each movement. “Letting the materials dictate their own form” became a recurring theme, reflecting Barlow’s philosophy of embracing imperfection.
The collection balanced ethereal lightness with deliberate weight. Sheer gowns in lavender, cornflower blue and buttery yellow floated like watercolors, while painted pink dresses offered softer contrasts. But not all designs whispered delicacy. Oversized jackets with sheer black panels and fuzzy coats bordered on the theatrical, their voluminous proportions threatening to overwhelm the wearer. Collaged sequin dresses and headpieces crackled audibly, adding a tactile dimension that linčić described as “sound as part of the design.”
Practicality peeked through the artistry. Slim satin dresses in vibrant hues and draped daywear tailored from traditional menswear fabrics grounded the lineup and reminded the audience of Roksanda‘s knack for balancing avant-garde concepts with timeless appeal. The designer acknowledged that certain exaggerated shapes, while striking on the runway, would require refinement for retail.
Intellectual women drawn to bold textures and architectural lines will find kinship in this collection. Black raffia fringes on coats, uncut fil coupe textile panels, and 3D foam accents cater to those who are not afraid to command attention. Ilincic’s work resonates with a clientele that views clothing as an extension of self-expression – a canvas for both quiet sophistication and unapologetic statement.
Sustainability remains a subtle undercurrent. By highlighting deadstock materials and championing a “make-do-and-mend” approach, the collection aligns with the values of younger generations without overtly preaching. The result is a lineup that feels contemporary yet timeless, proving that innovation does not have to come at the expense of a conscience.
©Photo: Roksanda