Rabanne‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is designer Julien Dossena’s most thought-provoking work to date, showcasing a profound tension between conventional exteriors and rebellious interiors. The presentation at the UNESCO headquarters provided an apt backdrop for garments that challenged traditional fashion boundaries while reflecting our complex social moment.
Looking beyond the label’s famous metallic party wear, Dossena created something completely different this season. His latest offerings feature formal silhouettes hiding unexpected elements – tweed coats bursting with leather strips, bourgeois outerwear revealing vibrant patterns inside. This juxtaposition feels particularly relevant in these turbulent times.
“We found it bit tough to design this season,” Dossena admitted backstage, referring to the heaviness permeating recent events. His response was to create clothing that acknowledges societal contradictions – orderly on the outside, chaotic on the inside.
The collection draws inspiration from 1970s Fassbinder films and the music of Sinead O’Connor, resulting in punk-influenced interpretations of classic bourgeois dressing. Standout pieces include twinsets paired with edgy kilts, military-inspired suits with silver lapels, and innovative double-faced tailoring that creates trompe l’oeil effects.
Textural contrasts dominate throughout. Ladylike tweeds open to reveal faux fur accents. Silver paillettes spill over conventional coat lapels. Embroidered details hide inside paneled skirts, visible only on movement. Black dresses unfurl to reveal sequined underskirts – beauty emerging from the darkness.
Accessories reinforce this rebellious spirit with layered earrings, combat boots, chunky Mary Janes and sequined socks. The new “The Ring” bag features an intriguing pierced closure, further emphasizing the collection’s avant-garde sensibility.
For menswear, Dossena applies the same principles of contrasting textures and unexpected layering. Male models wore identical double-faced suits and outerwear to their female counterparts, highlighting the increasingly fluid nature of contemporary fashion.
One particularly striking ensemble was a green-brown menswear pantsuit with silver embroidered lapels worn over a silver sequined turtleneck – no explosives needed to make an impact. Equally compelling was a confetti print suit that offered a more straightforward but no less interesting approach.
The extensive use of synthetic fur throughout raises questions about sustainability in the current fashion climate. Dossena joins numerous designers who, despite growing environmental concerns, are embracing these non-biodegradable materials – perhaps another reflection of our contradictory times.
What truly distinguishes this collection is how accurately it reflects today’s societal tensions. Just as many maintain a composed exterior while feeling chaotic on the inside, these garments present conventional shells that conceal unexpected elements. Dossena’s work captures the essence of modern existence – the attempt to maintain order amidst underlying turmoil.
Chappell Roan’s front-row presence reinforced the collection’s edgy credentials, bringing her trashy-glam aesthetic into direct conversation with Rabanne’s new direction. This celebrity endorsement signals the brand’s continued cultural relevance beyond its metallic heritage.
©Photo: Rabanne