The Prada Fall/Winter 2025 collection, created by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, confronts the complexities of modern femininity with designs that reject polished perfection. In a season where many Milan runways leaned towards romanticism, the duo opted for raw edges, unapologetic shapes and a stark departure from conventional beauty standards.
The collection was born out of a shared frustration with the current cultural moment. Prada described the mood as “very black,” a sentiment reflected in the abundance of dark herringbone fabrics and roomy silhouettes. Little black dresses – often synonymous with sleek sophistication – were reimagined as loosely cinched fabric tubes or sack-like sheaths, their edges intentionally frayed. The lack of structure became a deliberate statement. “The idea of feminine beauty often leads to sculptural designs,” Simons noted backstage. “Here, the body is free.”
Liberation took center stage. Skirts with paper-bag waists erased hourglass curves, while lumpy sweaters and boxy coats emphasized comfort over contouring. Outerwear stood out, particularly cropped jackets with shearling accents and gray felt coats crumpled to suggest lived-in wear. These pieces contrasted sharply with the flowing, romantic styles that dominated other shows, grounding the collection in practicality.
A gritty spontaneity permeated the runway. Models walked through an Art Nouveau carpeted scaffolding set, their hair disheveled and their expressions stern. Stilettos had jagged leather fins on the toes, adding an unsettling edge. Pajama-inspired skirts and faux-fur collars borrowed from the brand’s Fall/Winter 2025 menswear line blurred gender norms, further challenging rigid definitions of femininity.
The designers’ rejection of “touch me” fabrics in favor of coarse materials underscored their defiance. Seams were left exposed, creases pressed into garments as if they had been worn for years. This unvarnished aesthetic reflected Prada’s broader philosophy: “Ugly is exciting.” But the collection wasn’t all about rebellion. Split collars that dipped below the nape of the neck and fur-trimmed chubbies hinted at a subtle sensuality that prioritized the wearer’s comfort over the outside world’s gaze.
Cultural undercurrents reinforced the theme. References to Demi Moore’s film “The Substance” – in which a woman’s battle against aging turns monstrous – and Amy Adams’ “Nightbitch,” which explores the transformative toll of motherhood, highlighted the societal pressures on women. Prada and Simons didn’t offer solutions, but they did provoke questions. “We’re talking about what clothes make sense now,” Prada said, sidestepping politics to focus on craftsmanship.
Accessories followed suit. Handbags and shoes lacked overt glamour in favor of functionality. The absence of commercial flair emphasized the collection’s intellectual core. This wasn’t fashion for escapism, but for navigating a tense world with clarity.
©Photo: Prada