For Fall/Winter 2025, Prabal Gurung fuses tactile comfort with sharp tailoring, reflecting New York‘s restless energy and desire for intimacy amidst uncertainty. The lineup blends structured menswear accents with fluid femininity, anchored by wool coats, Mongolian shearling and knits that prioritize warmth without sacrificing sophistication.
Gurung‘s focus on tactile materials – double-faced cashmere, washed leathers and plush shearling – creates a cocooning effect. Oversized, kimono-inspired coats and undone shirts suggest a lived-in ease, while metallic corset dresses and silk gazar gowns add flashes of glamour. The designer described the collection as a response to dystopian undertones in current culture, where “comfort becomes rebellion.”
Unexpected menswear elements anchor the lineup. Structured blazers are paired with draped dhoti pants, and roomy Oxford shirts contrast with leather trousers. Gurung cited his own habit of loosening bow ties after events as inspiration for casually unbuttoned collars. These details nod to the late-night spontaneity of New York, where borrowed clothes blur gender lines.
The designer’s Nepalese heritage surfaces in kurta-inspired silhouettes and wrap tops paired with bubble skirts. A final look of hand-embroidered white lilies – symbolizing purity and mourning – hints at the fragility beneath the collection’s bold exterior. Fur-trimmed peacoats and plaid outerwear offer sheltering forms reminiscent of Paul Poiret, blending historical references with urban practicality.
With his new Atelier line dedicated to eveningwear, Gurung’s ready-to-wear embraces relaxed versatility. Knit tanks, upside-down sweaters styled as scarves, and faux-fur coats designed for coffee runs reflect a shift toward unfussy luxury. The looks eschew preciousness in favor of fabrics that soften with wear.
©Photo: Prabal Gurung
