The Max Mara Spring/Summer 2025 collection serves up a potent blend of fashion and intellect, inspired by the often overlooked intersection of science and design. Creative director Ian Griffiths, captivated by the Apple TV+ series “Lessons in Chemistry,” found himself reflecting on the societal bias against women in STEM fields and the curious dismissal of science in creative fields. This sparked a journey back to figures like Hypatia, a fourth-century mathematician and astronomer whose groundbreaking work in geometry laid the foundation for Griffith’s latest exploration.
Rather than vibrant hues, the collection speaks in a muted palette of camel, brown, black, white and navy. Classic silhouettes such as trench coats, chore jackets and sharp blazers take center stage. But a closer look reveals the intricate language of geometry woven throughout the collection. Triangular tabs adorn coat collars, back yokes extend seamlessly into sleeves, and oversized shirt cuffs fold back over jackets, all meticulously placed details that whisper of mathematical precision.
Darts, often hidden in fashion design, become focal points, transforming into triangular pleats that cinch waists, accentuate shoulders and add visual intrigue to minimalist designs. This meticulous attention to detail stems from Griffiths’ childhood fascination with his mother’s sewing and pattern-making. He elevates these subtle construction elements to an art form, showcasing their ability to shape and define the female form.
Crisp fabrics and streamlined shapes exude understated elegance. Tightly draped silhouettes and body-hugging knit dresses add a touch of sensuality, while voluminous trench coats with darting backs add an unexpected twist. Griffiths’ dedication to the often overlooked back of garments, a lesson imparted by an experienced Max Mara pattern maker, speaks to the comprehensive design philosophy at play.
©Photo: Max Mara