John Galliano’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Maison Margiela was a tour de force that will surely be remembered as one of the most avant-garde and emotional shows of the season. Set in an abandoned speakeasy under the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, the collection was a theatrical exploration of the city’s underbelly, populated by characters who were both glamorous and deeply human.
The show opened with a short film noir that set the tone for the evening. The film featured scenes of corset tightening, lust and jewel theft, hinting at the dark and dangerous world Galliano was about to reveal. When the models finally took to the runway, they emerged from the shadows like moths drawn to a flame.
The clothes were as dramatic as the setting. Galliano’s signature bias-cut dresses were reimagined in sheer fabrics, revealing the models’ bodies underneath. Oversized trench coats and rumpled street-urchin suits were nipped and tucked at the waist, creating an hourglass silhouette that was both alluring and unsettling. The men’s looks were equally striking, with handsome tweed coats and enveloping trenches juxtaposed with ripped jeans and bare chests.
But it was the details that made the collection truly memorable. Galliano’s use of “emotional cutting” – a technique that imbues garments with the subconscious gestures of human expression – was particularly inspired. A caban pulled over the head in the rain, a lapel raised to cover the face, a pair of pants pulled up to avoid a puddle of water – these were the everyday gestures that Galliano transformed into high fashion.
The result was a collection that was both beautiful and disturbing, glamorous and gritty. It was a reminder that fashion can be more than just clothes; it can be a powerful tool for storytelling and self-expression.
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In recent years, Galliano has faced his fair share of challenges. But with his Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collection, he has proven that he is still one of the most creative and provocative voices in fashion. It is sure to be remembered as one of the most talked about shows of the season.
At a time when so much fashion feels homogeneous and derivative, Galliano’s collection is a breath of fresh air. It is a reminder that there is still room for originality and experimentation in fashion.
Maison Margiela’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collection is not for everyone. It is for the fashion lover who appreciates the avant-garde and is not afraid to push boundaries. It is for the collector who wants to own a piece of fashion history.
Read more: Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024
©Photo: Maison Margiela
