LaQuan Smith‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection arrives with a rebellious edge, trading the runway for an intimate studio experience while doubling down on his signature blend of audacity and luxury. The designer’s decision to forgo a traditional show underscores a strategic shift toward deepening his brand’s roots, yet the collection itself remains unmistakably bold – a fusion of 1970s gangster suiting and unapologetic sensuality. At its core is a revitalized houndstooth print, reimagined through Smith’s lens of sharp tailoring and provocative detailing.
This season, houndstooth sheds its conventional gravitas. Smith transforms the classic pattern into something daring and fresh, using pony hair, patent leather trims and opulent fur. A cropped jacket with a patent leather finish is paired with a pencil skirt cut by an ultra-high slit, while an oversized fur coat in the same print channels decadent rebellion. The traditional stiffness of the fabric dissolves into fluidity, whether in ultra-mini sets or a mesh catsuit that clings with strategic precision. “I wanted to inject playfulness,” Smith notes, “while keeping that raw, powerful energy.”
Power dressing is front and center, but with a twist. Wool blazers nipped at the waist hug the body, paired with metallic shirts or silk pussybow blouses shimmering with pinstripes. Tweed blazer dresses and cummerbund trousers nod to corporate polish, but crystals heat-set into suiting separates and flared silhouettes add youthful irreverence. For evening, a beaded net dress and a sheer aubergine gown balance vulnerability with confidence, their sheer panels and flowing lines echoing the collection’s sensual heartbeat.
Smith’s knack for body-conscious designs continues. Revived catsuits – one in sheer black lace, another in textured mesh – accentuate curves without going overboard. “My woman loves her body,” he asserts, emphasizing empowerment over exposure. Outerwear reinforces this ethos: a sweeping royal blue faux-fur coat evokes childhood memories of church Sundays and family milestones, while an open cage-knit jacket encrusted with chunky crystals offers glittering restraint.
The gritty glamour of New York City pulses through the collection, from bold outerwear to slinky silhouettes. Nods to Norma Kamali’s boldness and Lil’ Kim’s fearless style merge with Smith’s own vision of modern luxury. The result feels both nostalgic and forward-thinking, a reminder that power lies in embracing contrasts – structured yet fluid, polished yet provocative.
By opting for a studio presentation, Smith shifted the focus to craftsmanship and customer engagement. Buyers and devotees encountered pieces like a tweed blazer dress with razor-sharp shoulders and a metallic shirt that caught the light like armor. These choices reflect a designer honing his voice, blending mature tailoring with touches that excite.
©Photo: LaQuan Smith
