Jonathan Anderson’s menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2025 and Resort 2025 (Cruise 2025) womenswear was a triumph of irrational, space cadet-inspired clothing that pushed the boundaries of the familiar. The JW Anderson show featured a collage of disparate ideas, all aimed at creating garments that stimulated and aggravated conventional notions of menswear.
Anderson transformed classic pieces like liner jackets and denim gilets by rendering them in lush silks and exaggerated proportions. “Sometimes it’s about movement and sponginess and being tactile,” the designer explained of the inside-out mega-knit bombers. Sweaters conjoined with colorful, puckered pillows at the hips nodded to Henry Moore’s abstracted forms.
The collection had an air of 18th century swashbuckling, with patch pocket jackets featuring raised storm flaps and full-legged shorts cuffed mid-calf. Pants tucked into vintage military boots unlaced up the shin completed the musketeer vibe.
Anderson’s disruptive approach extended to a series of knit dresses resembling various English architectural styles, some complete with a seagull perched on the shoulder. Nostalgic Guinness advertising appeared on sweats and knits – a nod to the designer’s Northern Irish roots and appreciation for the brand’s radical image-making.
As is typical for JW Anderson, this Spring/Summer 2025 and Resort 2025 collection seemed an exercise in experimentation to intuit the shape of future tastes and jump ahead of the curve. The designer noted the incredible ways the younger generation is pushing self-expression through clothing, making his own designs seem “mild” in comparison. With JW Anderson continuing to probe the outer reaches of menswear, that future looks beguilingly irrational indeed.
Read more: Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2025 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: JW Anderson
