Amidst an industry grappling with excess, Jonathan Anderson delivered a powerful statement for his JW Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, stripping back to the fundamentals of fashion. Utilizing a limited palette of cashmere, leather, silk, and sequins, the collection showcased Anderson’s ability to create excitement through innovative cuts, trompe l’oeil prints, and unexpected details.
The collection exuded a youthful energy with its short hemlines and simple silhouettes. Models sported low-slung, zipper-flecked leather boots, a design destined to be a hit, which, paired with bare legs, emphasized the collection’s “girly, but tough” aesthetic. This sentiment was echoed by the show’s high-energy soundtrack, a mix of artists like Grimes, David Guetta, and Valentina.
Anderson’s signature wit was evident in his playful manipulation of classic clothing elements. A penny loafer’s coin slot was reimagined as a handbag detail, while a grey hoodie was transformed into a photorealistic print on a silk shift dress. A large leather throat latch became a striking detail on a short, bubble-shaped silk mac. These unexpected twists reflected Anderson’s desire to “tease the eye” and challenge perceptions of familiar garments.
Knitwear played a key role, appearing as both trompe l’oeil prints and in various textures, from rugged hand knits to a comically oversized intrecciato. The collection also featured a recurring motif of large, typewritten text taken from an essay on design by the late English art critic Clive Bell. Anderson explained this choice as a metaphor for “starting from a new blank page,” highlighting the need for the fashion industry to refocus and redefine itself in a changing world.
©Photo: JW Anderson