Jason Wu chose silence over spectacle for his Jason Wu Collection Fall/Winter 2025 collection, stepping away from the runway to reconnect with personal reflection and family-a decision that shaped a line steeped in archival reverence and meticulous craftsmanship. The Fall/Winter 2025 collection fuses past inspirations with modern ease, celebrating imperfections and the quiet strength of handcrafted details.
Wu’s turn to introspection led him to revisit his own archives, dusting off designs like a Madame Grès-inspired plissé dress from 2008. Instead of replicating nostalgia, he reimagined it through a contemporary lens. Photographs of the original garment’s construction were digitized and woven into jacquard fabrics, transforming memories into tactile textures. The result? A red strapless dress with an asymmetrical hem, its fabric echoing the ghostly imprint of pleats from decades past.
Deconstruction emerged as a recurring theme, though not in the traditional sense. Raw seams, exposed darts and “mille-feuille” layered hems – reminiscent of delicate pastry layers – highlighted the artistry behind each stitch. A pale pink wool-chiffon-silk dress turned inside out revealed its inner workings, while a mohair piece transitioned from opacity to translucency below the hips. These choices underscored Wu’s shift away from perfectionism, embracing instead the honesty of unfinished edges.
The collection balanced glamour with grounded simplicity. A glen plaid coat featured a circular screen-printed hem that resembled dipped paint, while a black ensemble channeled Tim Burton-esque drama with its Morticia Addams sharpness. Eveningwear dazzled without excess: a finale gown with a crinoline-skirted back paid subtle homage to Vionnet’s timeless elegance, its horsehair petticoats adding structure without stiffness.
Wu’s nods to fashion history felt deliberate yet understated. A peel-and-stick floral print whispered of Schiaparelli‘s surrealism, while fabric unfurled in a jacquard pattern hinted at Gaultier’s boldness. These touches never overshadowed the collection’s core craftsmanship. “Clothes should mean something,” Wu noted, emphasizing quality in an oversaturated market.
Comfort and ease ran through every piece, from alpaca-wool pants paired with batt exposure blazers to airy dresses with laser-cut layers. The designer’s embrace of “Frankenstein” experimentation – piecing together unexpected textures and silhouettes – created wearable art that felt lived-in, not fragile.
©Photo: Jason Wu
