Gucci recently held its latest fashion show in Milan, showcasing a collection that serves as a placeholder for the brand until the arrival of its new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, next Spring/Summer. The current collection was designed by the Gucci studio, filling the gap between the sign-off of former creative director, Alessandro Michele, and De Sarno’s first collection.
The collection was a mix of styles from past Gucci eras, including the ’90s and early 2000s, as well as more recent pieces inspired by the house’s heritage.
The show was held at the Gucci hub, which had been transformed into a chic, minimalist space with puce green carpeting and burgundy banquettes. The two sunken circles in the center of the room, which the show notes referred to as “representing the collaborative circularity at the heart of Gucci’s creative community“, were filled with social media influencers. Meanwhile, celebrities like Dakota Johnson, A$AP Rocky, Florence Welch, and Julia Garner sat in the outer ring.
Models emerged from a bank of elevators to present the collection, which showcased a variety of ideas, from ’90s slimline tailoring to more eccentric stylings, but it was clear that accessories were a major focus. The show featured a bounty of kitten heels with Dionysius hardware, fur-lined thong sandals, horse bit chukka boots, and Gucci-branded Moon Boots inspired by the ’60s. The team also included some of the more maximalist pieces from the Michele years, including crystal mesh skirts, leggings, acid bright faux furs, and rhinestone fringe earrings.
On the classic side, the Fall/Winter 2023 collection included some solid tailoring, with a pale gray calfskin pantsuit, a slouchy brown blazer and baggy jeans, and a trench coat, all of which honored Gucci’s leather legacy. The house also brought back model Amy Wasson, who epitomized the nonchalance of the Ford era in a trench coat with a new supersized Jackie bag.
