The Italian Stock Exchange, a space better known for Maurizio Cattelan’s provocative “L.O.V.E.” sculpture, was transformed into an unexpected oasis for the GCDS Spring/Summer 2025 show. Giuliano Calza, the brand’s creative force, presented his latest collection, “Flowers of the Concrete,” against a backdrop of fresh grass and the pulsating rhythm of a custom Charli XCX remix. The juxtaposition of delicate flora and the urban grit of the setting served as a powerful metaphor for the collection’s muse: the resilient woman who, like a flower pushing through the pavement, thrives in the face of adversity.
Inspired by the unwavering spirit of contemporary pop icons like Charli XCX and Bianca Censori, Calza sought to capture their “stubborn energy” in his designs. The result is a vibrant collection that seamlessly blends a DIY aesthetic with sophisticated tailoring. V-shaped tops made from simple t-shirts and sheer knits transformed into hyper-pop bodysuits embodied the accessible, playful nature of the brand. These pieces were then juxtaposed with luxurious duchesse satin, shaped into sharp pencil skirts, bomber jackets and ethereal minidresses.
This play of contrasts extended to the color palette. Vibrant oranges and purples collided with a spectrum of greens, including the brand’s signature “Brat Green,” reflecting the multifaceted nature of the GCDS woman. Calza’s signature Hello Kitty bikini, reimagined in sunny yellow, peeked out from under a geometric mini dress, a subtle nod to the brand’s playful DNA.
The collection celebrated those who defy expectations and forge their own paths, much like Charli XCX’s evolution from Myspace musician to global pop phenomenon. Calza, who sees his brand as a reflection of his community, struck a balance between wearability and aspiration. The clothes exuded a sense of confidence and individuality, encouraging self-expression and embracing the unexpected. It was a testament to the power of perseverance, proving that even in the concrete jungle, beauty and originality can flourish.
©Photo: GCDS
