Marco de Vincenzo’s latest collection for Etro reimagines the brand’s heritage through a lens of elemental restraint, trading extravagance for tactile depth while honoring its signature prints. Titled “Etro Magma”, the Fall/Winter 2025 line channels primal energy through meticulous craftsmanship and collaborative artistry, proving that evolution doesn’t require abandoning one’s roots.
In a backstage interview, de Vincenzo likened his creative process to archaeology, describing how he unearths archival motifs and recontextualizes them for contemporary wearability. This season, creation myths and prehistoric symbolism informed designs that paired sleek silhouettes with dense textures-shaggy wool furs, frayed trims, and jacquards so thick they seemed carved from stone. The opening look, a striped fur coat slung over slouchy paisley pants, epitomized this tension between raw materiality and lightness.
Central to the collection were collaborations with South Korean artist Maria Jeon, whose embroidered animal motifs added whimsy to tailored separates, and Rome’s Numero Cromatico collective, whose cave-painting-inspired set grounded the show in ancient imagery. Botanical prints, abstracted into almost geometric forms, appeared on ribbed knit dresses and corduroy jackets, while monochrome suits with crinkled finishes offered quieter alternatives to Etro’s typically vibrant palette.
For women, asymmetrical organza tunics and handkerchief hem dresses floated over heavy boots, their lightness contrasting with chunky sweaters and fringed denim. Men’s wear leaned toward painterly suits and duffle coats patterned with zoological embroidery, maintaining de Vincenzo’s focus on the practicality of daywear. Even sequins were understated, used sparingly as accents rather than all-over sparkle.
The designer’s philosophy of “maximalist minimalism” was most evident in tonal looks, where paisleys and florals dissolved into texture rather than color, proving that pattern can thrive without overwhelming. It’s a direction that respects Etro’s DNA while acknowledging the modern demand for versatility-clothes that are meant to be lived in, not just admired.
©Photo: Etro