Erdem Moralıoğlu’s 15th-anniversary collection – and first runway show since the pandemic – took place under the lofty colonnade of the British Museum (in Bloomsbury).
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“I moved to Bloomsbury during the pandemic and started to think about the characters who inhabited the area. Sitwell and Morrell were two amazing and formidable women; independent of thought and how they approached life. Two extraordinary beauties who lived peripherally”, explained the designer after the show.
Edith Sitwell and Ottoline Morrell were two English eccentrics pinned to his mood board backstage – the former partial to clothes with a medieval flair, and the latter into Edwardian and Victorian silhouettes. Both women were six feet tall, and knew and entertained each other, and both had donated gifts to the British Museum – hence the location. Both women were out of sync with the fashions of their day, which only stoked Moralıoğlu’s intrigue.
While its silhouettes were carved from the first half of the previous century, Moralıoğlu twisted them out of their prim lines and switched opulent fabrics for “poor” ones, using instead embellishment as his richness factor. Styled consistently with unfussy brogues, those dresses created a sense and sensibility that spoke to that post-pandemic appetite for the gentle grand gesture.
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©Erdem