Australian designer Christopher Esber is taking a deep dive into nostalgia for Fall/Winter 2024, exploring its multifaceted nature across two collections. Esber describes his inspiration as “creating this idea of summer past and present for day-to-evening,” while also expressing the concept of “erosion and decay in textiles.”
This intriguing duality translates into captivating plays on texture. We see pleated and crushed viscose, a sustainable material choice, alongside what Esber terms a “grittier” interpretation of the sunny Australian fashion aesthetic. The designer also taps into a 1970s-inspired “mood ring” vibe, evident in the Pre-Fall collection’s eye-catching “aura” print adorning a metallic mesh dress and skirt. Further innovation comes from thermo-sensitive resin pebbles on a dress that changes color with body heat, adding a playful element to classic jersey pieces.
Do you use Google News? You can follow your favorite media. Follow Fashionotography on Google News, by RSS or on Flipboard.
Esber tackles the season’s ubiquitous lace trend with a fresh perspective. He playfully experiments by painting latex onto French lace or pairing it with unexpected materials like suede, ribbing, or recycled rubber flip-flop jellies. “I’m always really fascinated by things that aren’t what they seem, that feel different,” he explains. This fascination with subverting expectations extends to tailoring, where Esber ventures into new territory. We see a chic skirt suit with cigar-colored suede trim and a boxy khaki blazer that promises to be a hit. A blue jacket with a unique T-bar cutout under a trench-style back offers a touch of ventilation without compromising coverage.
The main Fall/Winter collection delves deeper into the concept of heirlooms. Esber creates oversized volumes in a white cashmere coat, inspired by the idea of repurposing vintage fur. A shaggy coat in looped merino knit adds further texture and warmth. The theme of cherished family pieces translates into a jewel print adorning a hoodie and a double belt embellishing a sleeveless white dress. Silver piercings along the edge of a black calf hair trench add a touch of punkish rebellion.
Esber isn’t afraid to embrace states of undress, a signature element for his clientele. This Fall/Winter collection offers a variety of pieces that celebrate confidence and individuality, ensuring his loyal fans have plenty to add to their wardrobes.
Read more: Rokh Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week
©Photo: Christopher Esber