Chemena Kamali’s second collection for Chloé Spring/Summer 2025, presented at the Tennis Club de Paris, solidified her vision for the iconic fashion house. Building on the success of her debut, Kamali continues to delve into Chloé’s rich archives while adding her own unique perspective. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection showcased a dreamy femininity that echoed the ethereal vocals of Elizabeth Fraser, who filled the bright, airy show space. Celebrities such as Sienna Miller and Natalia Vodianova, embodying the Chloé aesthetic in ruffled blouses and high-waisted flares, looked perfectly at ease in the front row. Kamali’s designs, recognizable even without the signature logo belts, included romantic lace blouses, sheer prairie dresses and impeccably tailored pantsuits reminiscent of those worn by Vice President Kamala Harris.
Inspired by Gaby Aghion’s bubble shapes of the late 1950s and the floral prints and delicate lace of the late 1970s, Kamali reinterprets these elements with a modern sensibility. Unconventional bloomers gathered above the ankle, boyish bubble shorts and lace-trimmed henley knits offer a fresh take on classic silhouettes. Puff-sleeved blouses are transformed into structured chore jackets and cropped suede toppers with strong shoulders. These pieces exude both strength and grace. Kamali’s shell-shaped leather shoulder bags, adorned with charms of broken shells and branded talismans like bananas, capture the “fantasy of summer.” A touch of whimsy appears in a flamingo-decorated swimsuit and a golden horse head peeking out of a hobo bag. Even the shoes, with messages etched into high wooden platforms, add to the collection’s playful spirit.
Kamali’s deep understanding of Chloé’s history is evident throughout the collection. Her reinterpretation of Karl Lagerfeld‘s “waist shapers” from Spring/Summer 1977 and lace bloomers from Spring/Summer 1978 offers a contemporary perspective on sensual dressing for 2025. While jackets in sturdy cotton, soft suede and leather add structure to the collection, the true essence of Chloé lies in its inherent freshness and lightness. Floral bouquet print dresses in cascading ruffled chiffon, shorter in the front and longer in the back, embody this ethereal quality. Kamali’s confident evolution of her first collection incorporates more casual elements such as high-waisted flared jeans and a playful flamingo swimsuit, providing accessible entry points into the brand. The kitten heel jelly sandals are sure to be a popular choice.
©Photo: Chloé
