Chemena Kamali’s Chloé Fall/Winter 2025 collection transforms blouses into heirlooms, blending assertive silhouettes with whispers of nostalgia. Structured shoulders and billowing sleeves anchor the lineup, while lace dresses and leather trenches underscore a woman’s evolving contradictions.
Kamali, now in her second year as Creative director, drew on archival inspiration without using it as a crutch. Broad shoulders and fleshy cuffs elevated ivory silk blouses to armor-like status, their voluminous shapes reminiscent of 1980s power dressing. Delicate peach chiffon skirts and frothy lace peplums softened these statements, creating a tension between strength and vulnerability.
Backstage, the designer emphasized complexity. “We have different layers, different moods,” she said, pointing to Victorian-inspired jackets thrown over plunging knits and narrow skirts that slithered like smoke. Fur-trimmed quilted coats nodded to retro glamour, while dangling gold chains and logo belts added a talismanic edge.
The revival of the Paddington bag – worn by models in multiples – hinted at Kamali’s reverence for Chloé‘s early-aughts heyday. Yet her vision felt forward-thinking: sheer chiffon dresses layered like veils, leather trenches cut with military precision, and pussy-bow blouses that balanced romance with austerity.
Actress Dree Hemingway captured the ethos after the show: “They’re pieces I’d want to give to my daughter.” That heirloom quality permeated even the palette – bone whites, teals and raspberries – applied to satin negligee dresses and boxy frock coats alike.
Kamali’s challenge is to refine Chloé’s bohemian DNA without overstuffing it. While fur pompoms and tiered maxi skirts risked clutter, her sharp tailoring and slashed necklines kept the collection grounded. As Paris tilts toward sleek minimalism, Chloé’s whimsical confidence feels defiantly alive.
©Photo: Chloé