The Carven Fall/Winter 2025 collection marks a new chapter for the storied French house with the appointment of Mark Howard Thomas as Director of Design. Formerly a senior designer under Louise Trotter, Thomas has created a collection that honors his predecessor’s aesthetic while subtly introducing his own vision.
With only six weeks to prepare before Paris Fashion Week, Thomas approached his debut with focused determination. His collection builds on the foundations laid during the brand’s revival last year, while introducing refined elements that hint at future directions.
Thomas drew significant inspiration from the “Esperanto” jacket, a fitted design created by Madame Carven herself in 1951. This historic piece, similar to Dior‘s iconic Bar jacket, served as a blueprint for developing more accentuated silhouettes throughout the collection.
The structured lines of this archival treasure are transformed into contemporary blazers and dresses, while retaining the original’s sophisticated shoulder construction and waist-defining shape. A pressed tweed coat exemplifies this aesthetic and demonstrates Thomas’ respect for the house’s 80-year heritage.
Alongside the structured pieces, Thomas incorporated elements from another source of inspiration: the dressing gown. This influence manifests itself in fluid proportions, as seen in a double-faced wool coat and a textured ink-blue variation embellished with fringe detailing.
These fringes become a recurring motif in numerous pieces, from asymmetrical skirts to blouses with trailing sashes that offer versatile styling options. The collection features deliberate draping techniques that create movement and visual interest.
“I really wanted to make sure that there was texture, some color, and a little more skin that was visible than what we’ve been doing,” Thomas explained of his approach.
This sentiment translates into designs that reveal the nape of the neck or feature unexpected openings. A nubby wool blouson with a wide-open neck and cardigans with dual-function buttons on the front and back demonstrate this subtle sensuality.
Thomas has cleverly incorporated scarf elements throughout the collection. Appearing as sculptural drapes on single-sleeve blouses and folded collars on crisp poplin shirts, they add distinctive detail without overwhelming the garments.
Skirts designed to resemble wraparound shawls showcase Thomas’ talent for creating pieces that feel special yet wearable. These subtle statements reflect an understanding that fashion consumers often seek distinctive elements without excessive drama.
While previous collections under Trotter favored neutrals, Thomas introduces stronger color expressions that signal his evolving vision. Lapis blue appears in full looks, while a double-breasted coat in peony pink brings a welcome vibrancy to the collection.
This gradual introduction of color feels perfectly timed, bringing freshness to the brand while maintaining a connection to its recent aesthetic evolution.
The collection’s accessories continue Carven’s playful yet sophisticated approach. Classic pumps feature unexpected faux fur toe caps, while fuzzy babouche slippers complement the collection’s relaxed elements.
These footwear options reinforce the dual narrative of sophistication and comfort that runs throughout the designs.
Despite following a female Creative director, Thomas expressed his commitment to representing diverse female perspectives in his work for the historically female-focused brand.
“I’m going to try to surround myself as much as possible with women who embody the brand – friends, photographers, stylists,” Thomas shared, acknowledging the importance of female input in his creative process.
Thomas described this Fall/Winter 2025 collection as “the first turn of the dial” towards his future vision for Carven. This suggests an evolutionary rather than revolutionary approach to his creative direction, respecting what has come before while gradually introducing his unique perspective.
©Photo: Carven