Olivier Rousteing’s tenure at Balmain has been nothing short of transformative, and his latest collection, Balmain Resort 2025 (Cruise 2025), is a testament to his enduring love for the house. This season, Rousteing literally inscribes his love on the garments, with his own handwriting taking center stage. “Je t’aime” and “Amour” are scrawled across dresses, jackets and tops in a romantic cursive script reminiscent of Rousteing’s favorite calligraphy classes from his school days.
The collection is a celebration of Balmain’s signature boldness, reimagined with a playful, self-reflexive twist. Trompe l’oeil effects are masterfully used to create optical illusions that delight and inspire. A crystal-embroidered dress with a nude effect bears Rousteing’s declaration of love, while a snow-white boucle jacket is adorned with brass-tone brooches that spell out his affection. The designer’s handwriting is everywhere, from the chest of a monochrome t-shirt blouse to the lapels of a tailored jacket, even on men’s bracelets and bikers.
Rousteing’s wit and creativity shine through in the collection’s intricate details. Pin cushions and tape measures are reimagined as jewelry and shoe hardware, while bags are designed with sweatshirt neck openings. Leather bikers are spliced with denim truckers, and double-neck sweaters make an appearance, showcasing the designer’s knack for innovative silhouettes.
The Resort collection also pays homage to Balmain’s classic black and gold codes, with Rousteing’s handwriting appearing in polished brass embellishments on blazers. The giant strokes spelling out words like “Amor” seem to consume the garments, serving as a bold declaration of the designer’s love for his craft.
In an interview, Rousteing described the collection as a love letter to Balmain and the atelier. “When I designed it, I was also thinking about when you are married for so long and you renew your vows to show everyone that you still feel that love,” he said. “This is Balmain, and this is my love letter.”
Balmain Resort 2025 is a stunning ode to Rousteing’s enduring passion for the house and the art of fashion. With its romantic handwritten motifs and innovative silhouettes, the collection is a powerful statement of love and creativity. Rousteing’s message is clear: his mark on Balmain is undeniable and his love for the brand is as strong as ever.
©Photo: Balmain
