The Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2023 fashion show marked a significant shift from the usual, as the creative director, Demna Gvasalia, decided to concentrate solely on the clothing, disregarding the extravaganza. The event, held at the prestigious Carrousel du Louvre, was the brand’s first public appearance since their advertising scandal last November. In response to the controversy, Demna abandoned the celebrity glitz and dystopian sets that had become his trademark, opting instead to highlight the art of clothing-making.
The show was a testament to Demna’s tailoring and dressmaking skills, as the coed collection was divided into three parts. The first part showcased pants that were transformed into jackets, dresses, and trench coats, reminiscent of Maison Margiela, where Demna had worked earlier in his career. The second part paid homage to biker clothing, with models donning oversized padded boots and appearing hunchbacked due to the inflated inner airbags. The final part displayed loose dresses and stunning evening wear, with the closing look featuring a black feather-covered gown belted with a bow.
Demna Gvasalia revealed that his love for his craft was his refuge during the controversy, as he took refuge in his work to create the collection. He noted that the pants transformations were the only elements in the collection created post-crisis, and he had been working on the collection since October with the intention of opening a new creative chapter and focusing more on the clothing.
In a post-show interview, Demna Gvasalia discussed the pressure to resign and create “boring clothes” to avoid future controversy. He stated that he didn’t want to change who he was and would continue to concentrate on the clothing and not the spectacle in future Balenciaga shows.