Stefano Gallici’s latest offering for Ann Demeulemeester‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a masterful blend of nostalgia and delicacy. Now in his third season, the creative director draws inspiration from his musical past and the brand’s signature aesthetic to create a lineup that resonates with a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.
Presented in a raw, modern space near Montparnasse station, the collection featured a runway adorned with white lilies, creating a mood that was both ethereal and slightly melancholic. Gallici’s references range from Hunter S. Thompson to Stevie Nicks, creating a rich tapestry of cultural touchstones that inform the designs.
Gallici’s approach to fashion, informed by his background in punk and indie music, brings a fresh perspective to the brand. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection seamlessly integrates elements of New Romanticism with distressed denim, hammered satins and delicate chiffons. Standout pieces include powder pink and lilac ensembles alongside intricately lasered English eyelet chiffons.
The designer’s focus on texture and layering is evident throughout the collection. Thick leather coats are juxtaposed with flowing silk shirts, while broderie anglais details add a touch of romance. The interplay between rawness and fragility is a recurring theme, with crisp cottons and velvets complementing impalpable knits.
Ann Demeulemeester’s signature elongated silhouette is reimagined through Gallici’s lens, incorporating fluid fabrics and slouchy proportions that exude youthful ease. The lived-in aesthetic of sun-soaked jerseys and distressed denim pieces adds a contemporary edge to the collection.
While not every look may find its place in everyday wardrobes, Gallici’s willingness to take risks and push boundaries is commendable. His unique references and alternative point of view attract a niche community of individuals who don’t fit into mainstream streetwear or pop aesthetics.
His focus on building community through projects such as the children’s cultural journal and diverse show castings has proven invaluable. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection not only offers a fresh take on fashion, but also cultivates a sense of belonging for those seeking a more nuanced and culturally rich approach to style.
©Photo: Ann Demeulemeester