Alessandro Dell’Acqua never fails to inject a dose of glamour into Milan Fashion Week. His N°21 collections, brimming with sheer fabrics, glitzy embellishments, and a general sense of dressed-up elegance, offer a refreshing change from the quieter fashion trends that have dominated recently.
This season, Dell’Acqua throws out the rulebook with his “Anarchic Glamour” collection, a playful and rebellious take on bourgeois codes. He reinterprets classic silhouettes with a not-too-perfect attitude and a touch of eccentric flair.
Imagine a world where cocktail dresses with plunging necklines mingle with Fair Isle sweaters, and delicate beaded frocks peek out from under Neoprene-lined leather jackets. This is the essence of Dell’Acqua’s collection, where unexpected pairings create a sense of delightful dissonance.
Marabou stoles in pastel hues add a touch of whimsy to mannish coats, while seemingly demure satin dresses and chiffon frocks reveal cheeky side openings held together by ribbons. Dell’Acqua proves that rebellion can be expressed with beautiful and wearable clothing.
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Dell’Acqua found inspiration in vintage fashion magazines, drawn to the glamorous looks of Italian couturiers from the 1980s. However, his aim wasn’t nostalgia, but subversion. He sought to dismantle the “bon-ton clichés” of the past, creating a collection that feels fresh and relevant for today.
Dell’Acqua isn’t a self-proclaimed subversive, but he champions creative freedom and pushes against limitations. His “Anarchic Glamour” is a battle cry against conformity, advocating for “liberty in non-libertarian times.“
The collection playfully reinterprets classic elements of bourgeois dressing – the tailleur, the cocktail dress, the little black dress, and the fur coat – with a humorous and irreverent touch. Think a deconstructed black suit transformed into a tiny embroidered jacket paired with a barely-there skirt, or a chunky bouclé tweed Chanel-inspired ensemble with a midriff-baring jacket and an awkwardly wrapped skirt.
Adding to the unconventional vibe, models walked the runway with minimal makeup, undone hair, and bare legs, some even unshaved. Sturdy brogues and pointy slingbacks were laced up like sexy corsets, creating an air of “nihilistic eroticism” that walked the line between trashy and chic.
Dell’Acqua’s message is clear: glamour doesn’t have to be stuffy or conventional. It can be playful, rebellious, and even a little bit messy. With his Fall/Winter 2024 collection, he proves that fashion has the power to challenge norms and spark conversation.
Read more: Roksanda Fall/Winter 2024 – London Fashion Week
©Photo: N°21
