The AMIRI Fall/Winter 2023 collection is a true work of art, reflecting the memories and aspirations of CEO and creative director Mike Amiri. The collection embodies the essence of a musical composition, transporting us to the sounds and rhythms of 90s New York, when the East Coast was setting the standard and the legendary DJ Premier was leading the way.
The creative process for the collection began in Premier’s studio in Queens, where Mike and Premier shared ideas and unearthed archival pieces that connected to the designer’s formative years. This theme of production runs throughout the collection, as Mike and his team’s method is similar to that of a recording studio: experimenting, discovering new rhythms, and exploring new ways to work with materials.
On this beat, traditional tailoring principles are blended with elements of skate, studio and stage. The garments are designed to be loose, fluid, and with ample proportions, exuding a relaxed and effortless downtown vibe. An unconventional approach, paired with luxurious materials such as cashmere, silk, shearling, faux fur, and brushed wool, elevates the garments to their most opulent forms. The color palette of the collection includes monochrome, silver grey, azure and ochre, with accents of deep red and mint green, evoking the colors of the city.
In the AMIRI subverted classicism, suiting is transformed into a daily symbol of comfort and elegance, crafted from supple leather or brushed wool. Blazers are reimagined with the iconic features of a varsity jacket, and casual shapes are refined and detailed. Hemlines of untucked shirts peek out from beneath knitwear, and signature wide, pleated pants are more voluminous than ever – sometimes made from soft teddy fabric with oversized utility pockets. The collection evokes the optimism of 1950s Americana, with prep uniforms blending with Beat Generation literature, and newsboy hats becoming counterculture icons.
The collection also features techniques developed in-house that alter the perception of fabrics, such as Swarovski sequins hand-embroidered to resemble tassels and the delicate texture of fur is replicated by uncut fine silk. Signature bandana prints are pieced together with leather and suede, while patterns hand-painted in the studio are translated to shearling jackets, meticulously crafted from leftover fabric as three-dimensional brushstrokes.
An emphasis on artisanal innovation and a sense of performance, drawing on Mike’s early days designing contemporary stage wear for renowned musicians. This season embodies Mike Amiri in the studio: improvising, experimenting, and finding his rhythm. The collection also includes the introduction of a new Drum Machine bag as a tribute to the favorite instrument of producers, alongside The Record as a nod to vinyl. AMIRI-branded vinyl crates are carried by models, and new hi-top MA-1 style and faux fur versions of the Malibu Boot are showcased.
