The Courrèges Spring/Summer 2026 collection arrived in Paris with a direct question for the audience: Can clothing respond to heat that feels impossible to ignore? Nicolas Di Felice used the runway to answer in his own way.
The show began with a reminder of rising temperatures. A voice announced summer temperatures reaching extreme levels. The show’s title was “Blinded by the Sun,” and guests received a pair of black sunglasses as an invitation. Guests such as Naomi Watts and Emma Chamberlain wore them. The sunglasses set the mood before the first model appeared.
The designer played with the idea of concealment and exposure. Baseball caps were topped with veils that covered the face and were cut from sheer fabric. The veils dropped across the models’ faces and were tucked into A-line miniskirts. The designer reached into the archives for inspiration, but reimagined the look for today’s weather. Though these coverings looked delicate, they carried the weight of function.
Next came leather jackets, but not in their usual form. Their sleeves opened with zippers that let the wearer’s arms slip free. Elements of swimwear entered the collection, too. Backless tops became part of Courrèges’s signature minis with sharp geometry. The effect was direct and free of complication, with a cool practicality.
Di Felice showed a fascination with construction that felt technical without being excessive. Narrow belts, once a Courrèges staple, were featured on vinyl skirts and dresses. They shone like strips of light, carrying a faint echo of Venetian blinds. Di Felice stretched the house check until it resembled solar panels — a subtle yet pointed detail.
The light above the set grew more intense as the show continued. Guests reached for their sunglasses. The atmosphere became oppressive, yet the clothes remained airy. Dresses with stiff front panels resembled nylon car sunshades. Despite their rigid shape, they were designed to move. The designer stressed that the cut did not sacrifice comfort.
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Di Felice referenced global warming both as a fact and a symbol. He spoke of how bright sunlight can distort vision, causing objects to blur and fade. This idea was evident throughout the collection, where some pieces seemed to dissolve. Colors warmed as if heated by exposure. At times, transparency replaced solid structure. One got the feeling that the garments could vanish under relentless light.
The Courrèges Spring 2026 Collection remained true to the label’s futurism, but changed the mood. André Courrèges’s 1960s optimism gave way to something sharper and more urgent. Fashion was presented as a response to the climate crisis rather than as an escape.
Di Felice’s work was not just for spectacle. He drew attention to comfort and to pieces that could withstand a hot day while maintaining their modern edge. The set was stripped of decoration. Instead, a harsh circle of light made the air feel heavier. Against that backdrop, the clothes had to speak for themselves.
The audience left with the sense that Courrèges is designing a wardrobe for a hotter world. Technical construction supported simple wearability. The house’s signatures were present, yet reworked with fresh practicality. The result was powerful yet restrained.