The Chanel Métiers d’Art 2024/2025 (Pre-Fall 2025) collection took us on a journey to the otherworldly landscapes of Hangzhou’s West Lake, blending heritage and haute couture in a breathtaking way. As night fell over the calm waters, guests arrived by ornate wooden boats, setting the tone for an evening full of elegance and mystery. Even without an artistic director, the studio team was able to stay on track and work together to create something that honored both Chanel’s legacy and Chinese artistry.
The show started with models coming out of a cloud of mist in monochromatic outfits that looked really sophisticated. Long-shouldered coats in rich tweeds, satins, and velvets showed how to layer – a nod to the well-traveled woman who carries her world with her. The bags were a big part of the show, with mini flap bags attached to quilted totes and duffels that combined fashion and function. The combination of textures and silhouettes conveyed a lot without saying a word.
There were subtle references to Chinese culture throughout the collection, which paid homage without being too obvious. The black patent leather had a sheen that echoed the lustrous finish of lacquerware, while pleated skirts and dresses by Lognon resembled the delicate folds of traditional fans. A palm-sized clamshell clutch and velvet braided frog closures on tweed jackets gave a nod to classical motifs, reimagined through Chanel’s refined lens. Tweed skirt suits were paired with knit bodysuits featuring scenes from Gabrielle Chanel’s treasured Coromandel screens, seamlessly blending Eastern and Western influences.
The footwear was a real standout. Over-the-knee wedge boots added length to the silhouettes, and an exquisite pair embroidered by Lesage featured cloud designs reminiscent of traditional Chinese paintings. These details made the collection stand out, showing that it was more than just about looks.
The setting was a key part of the story. Fog rolled over the lake as a pianist played Shostakovich, creating a really cool otherworldly vibe. The show space – a sleek black half-shell – matched the collection’s minimalist yet profound design sensibilities. The lake, just like the Coromandel screen that inspired Gabrielle Chanel, became a gateway to creativity and discovery.
Wim Wenders, the filmmaker, added another layer to the event with a new film featuring Tilda Swinton, Xin Zhilei and Leah Dou. The film linked the past and present, showing how Mademoiselle Chanel’s interest in the images on her screens and today’s digital windows to the world are connected. It celebrated all kinds of travel – physical journeys, cultural exchanges, and the journeys of the mind inspired by art and beauty.
Guests really got into this carefully put together experience, where every detail – from the tea served when they arrived to the final outfit – was thoughtfully considered. The collection didn’t scream for attention; it spoke in quiet, subtle ways, encouraging onlookers to take a closer look and appreciate the nuances of its storytelling.
The lack of a Creative director could have been a problem, but it actually worked in their favor, allowing for a variety of perspectives to emerge. The studio team’s collective effort resulted in a unified yet dynamic collection that felt both classic and current. It set the stage for the next chapter of Chanel’s storied journey, reminding us that sometimes, the most profound stories are told not through words, but through the delicate interplay of fabric, silhouette, and ambiance.
©Photo: Chanel
