For his Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Milan’s San Simpliciano Basilica, Bally Creative director Simone Bellotti delivered a rigorous lineup infused with an unexpected touch of irreverence. Inspired by a 1916 portrait of Dadaist Hugo Ball, Bellotti masterfully fused sharp, sculptural silhouettes with a whimsical sensibility, further solidifying the brand’s rise in the fashion world.
The signature mountain silhouette with sloping shoulders was a recurring motif, adorning the necklines of coats and blazers, while rounded miniskirts inspired by rustic cowbells added a playful touch. These unexpected curves, juxtaposed with structured tailoring, created a compelling tension between rationality and whimsy.
Bellotti’s fascination with form extended beyond the silhouette. He incorporated natural elements such as mushrooms, rocks, and mountains, reimagining them as abstract ornamentation reminiscent of Man Ray’s work. This translated into unique textures and details, such as knits with a crumpled, almost rock-like texture achieved through a special foil treatment.
The collection also highlighted Bally’s Swiss heritage. Tiny cowbells adorned metallic details, while trapeze doctor bags featured alpine floral palettes. Even the color scheme, with its earthy tones and pops of vibrant florals, evoked the Swiss countryside.
Shoes remained a strength, with Bally’s signature styles receiving updated treatments. The Glendale featured a slender platform heel, while the lace-up Scribe was elevated on a block heel. Derbies and Mary Janes were embellished with bright saddle studs, and punk spikes added an edgy touch to sandals.
Despite the recent acquisition of Bally by a subsidiary of Regent, Bellotti’s future with the brand seems secure. This collection, a testament to his clear vision and ability to evolve while staying true to Bally’s DNA, solidified his place as a force to be reckoned with in the industry.
©Photo: Bally