Peter Do presented his Spring/Summer 2025 collection at the Musée Guimet in Paris, showcasing his Vietnamese roots and design prowess. The designer’s latest offering, a testament to his evolving aesthetic, fused minimalist sensibilities with artisanal techniques.
Presented amidst centuries-old Asian artworks, Do’s collection featured a range of looks that spoke to his commitment to fluid deconstruction and essential design. The show opened with pieces from his new “168” line, named after the hours in a week and inspired by his personal tattoo. The all-black, seasonless line emphasized versatility and gender-neutral styling.
Standout pieces included deconstructed summer tailoring, with layered t-shirts featuring trailing cords for multiple styling options. Do’s innovative approach was evident in high-necked tops that revealed themselves as backwards shirts, showcasing his ability to reimagine wardrobe staples.
The collection’s palette ranged from stark blacks to subtle earth tones, with irregular ombré patterns on gauzy fabrics adding visual interest. These patterns, created using natural dyes from leaves, bark and soil, were particularly striking on men’s bombers and women’s slim coats.
Working with Philip Huang, Do incorporated centuries-old Thai dyeing techniques into tailored pieces, elevating the concept of handcrafted luxury. The partnership resulted in unique fabrics that merged traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design.
While the collection sometimes struggled to maintain a cohesive rhythm, individual pieces shone. A Vietnamese-style tunic in dark green chiffon paired with matching pants stood out for its uncomplicated elegance. Shredded denim and sweatshirts provided a casual counterpoint to the more structured offerings.
Peter Do’s Spring/Summer 2025 line represents a quieter, more personal approach to his design ethos. By stripping back to the essentials, he has created a collection that speaks to the modern wardrobe’s need for versatility and thoughtful construction.
The show closed with a memorable performance by Vietnamese-American drag performer Plastique Tiara, adding a final flourish to an already dynamic presentation.
©Photo: Peter Do