In the heart of Milan, at the PAC museum, Tod’s unveiled its Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection, a testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and the value of artisans’ skills. Creative director Matteo Tamburini’s first menswear outing for the label showcased a streamlined yet light-handed design approach, striking a balance between tradition and modernity.
The collection’s subdued palette of earth tones served as a canvas for the rich array of fabrications, such as the newly introduced Pashmy suede, as silky as cashmere. This innovative material was used in bombers, shirt jackets, and the new Di Bag sack, as well as the Tod’s T-Riviera shoes. Linen, another key fabric, was given a modern twist with an innovative heat-sealing treatment, resulting in a protective membrane that made it suitable for activewear.
Tamburini’s designs embodied the essence of relaxed elegance, with fluid deconstructed tailoring, featherweight nappa field jackets, and drawstring pants paired with light knits. The brand’s signature gommino pebble-soled pumps were reimagined in a new sabot version, available in natural colors.
Throughout the presentation, the spotlight was on the hands of Tod’s artisans, stitching and sewing the brand’s products, their bodies hidden as if they were puppeteers. This powerful visual served as a reminder of the importance of upholding artisanal intelligence in the face of rapidly developing artificial intelligence.
Diego Della Valle, chairman and CEO of the Tod’s Group, emphasized the need to maintain individuals and artisanal intelligence at the center, with its traditions and values, to keep artificial intelligence in check. He noted that while AI brings benefits, it also raises concerns about its use, and that the Italian craftsmanship and supply chain can serve as an example of the combination of tradition and the new speed of artificial intelligence.
Tamburini’s moodboard, featuring images of Basquiat, Alain Delon, and the dapper eccentricity of designer Stefano Pilati, hinted at his appreciation for the unconventional within his minimalist design range. However, he remains pragmatic, understanding that Tod’s identity is firmly rooted in elegant casual wear. His goal is to keep the brand grounded in modernity, stripped of excessive fashion information, while imbuing it with character and fresh appeal.
Read more: Brioni Spring/Summer 2025 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Tod’s
