Fashion insiders were left wanting after Y/Project‘s unexpected cancellation of their Fall/Winter 2024 runway show during Paris Fashion Week. However, designer Glenn Martens offered a captivating alternative: a star-studded lookbook brimming with creativity and celebrating his 10th year at the helm of the brand.
Martens’ vision for the collection was multifaceted. He drew inspiration from the somber beauty of medieval mourner sculptures (“pleurants“) after experiencing a personal loss, and referenced Umberto Eco’s captivating murder mystery novel, “The Name of the Rose.” This translated into dramatic draped hoods adorning familiar pieces like button-down shirts and fleece jackets, injecting a touch of Gothic mystery into everyday wear.
Functionality remained a core tenet for Martens. Gone were the days of complex garments requiring instruction manuals. This season, he embraced user-friendliness with garments featuring manipulable velcro panels. Jeans and t-shirts transformed with a touch, allowing wearers to sculpt silhouettes with intuitive ease. This innovation not only enhanced comfort but also contributed to the brand’s strong sales performance.
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The lookbook itself became a vibrant social gathering. Friends and supporters of Y/Project, including celebrities like Ye (formerly Kanye West), Tyga, and Charli XCX, joined top models like Natasha Poly and Irina Shayk to showcase the collection. Even Martens’ father, unaware of the show’s cancellation, found himself thrust into the spotlight, adding a touch of heartwarming authenticity.
While the runway’s absence left a void, the Fall/Winter 2024 collection undeniably stood on its own merits. Martens’ signature playfulness remained, evident in bondage-inspired prints (a recurring theme across fashion houses this season) and his unique approach to accessories. The moldable wire bags, a collaboration with Melissa and Salomon footwear, offered a glimpse into Y/Project’s expanding accessories line.
As Y/Project seeks investors to fuel its retail network and accessories growth, this collection serves as a testament to Martens’ ability to balance artistic vision with commercial viability. The Fall/Winter 2024 lookbook may not have been the runway extravaganza originally planned, but it ultimately became a celebration of Y/Project’s creative spirit and a glimpse into a promising future.
Read more: Diesel Fall/Winter 2024 – Milan Fashion Week
©Photo: Y/Project
