Comme des Garçons‘ Fall/Winter 2024 collection was a powerful and poignant expression of Rei Kawakubo’s current state of mind. Titled simply “Anger,” the show presented a stark contrast to the usual fashion week glamour.
Kawakubo’s message was clear from the outset. In a press statement, she declared, “This collection is about my present state of mind. I have anger against everything in the world, especially against myself.” This sentiment resonated throughout the show, both in the clothing and the unconventional presentation.
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The garments themselves were imposing and dramatic. Black dominated the palette, with a focus on bold silhouettes and unconventional textures. Boxy shapes contrasted with voluminous pannier skirts, while jackets featured puckered surfaces or jutting fins. Some looks incorporated barbed wire prints, while others were adorned with oversized bows and rosettes.
The runway presentation mirrored the emotional intensity of the collection. Models stomped down the runway, some throwing tantrums or veering off course to confront the audience. This theatrical performance challenged the traditional fashion show format, blurring the lines between model and participant.
Kawakubo’s signature impassive models were replaced with those actively expressing a range of emotions. This shift underscored the designer’s frustration with the limitations imposed by the fashion industry itself. Laughter rippled through the crowd as a model stomped her foot in frustration, a fitting reaction to the absurdity of the situation.
The finale offered a glimmer of hope. A white coat, adorned with delicate ribbons and tulle, stood in stark contrast to the black garments that dominated the show. Perhaps, it hinted at a path towards catharsis or a desire for change.
Read more: Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Comme des Garçons
