Sitting amongst the grandeur of Parisian aesthetics, we couldn’t help but be whisked away by the unadulterated simplicity of Peter Do’s collection. Bringing his sophisticated touch from New York to Paris, Peter Do’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection showcased his unique perspective on contemporary dressing, echoing his credentials of impeccable tailoring and a discerning taste.
Peter Do’s hallmark has often been his effortless finesse with trousers – a talent that remains unmatched this season. Yet, his portfolio isn’t confined to a singular category. With his roots tracing back to Celine under Phoebe Philo’s tutelage, it’s no surprise that his pieces bear a minimalist yet nuanced approach.
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This season, his garments told stories of sleek refinement and a subtle interplay of materials. Blazers, reborn, found themselves segmented into horizontal divisions, with silk twill linings displaying subtle brand detailing, juxtaposed with summer-weight wool. Such artistic integrations might stay on the runway, but other pieces promise utility: midriff-baring jackets, exaggerated shoulder blazer vests, and yes, those immaculately tailored trousers. Especially noteworthy were trousers showcasing audacious slits revealing vibrant swatches of red, signifying a courageous twist to his otherwise understated palette.
Peter Do’s Paris debut wasn’t solely about his singular vision. Also embedded within his collection were teasers of his collaboration with Banana Republic, slated for October release. A khaki trench featuring a detachable shearling collar and a multi-purpose chunky ribbed sweater rendered an affable nuance, yet maintaining his signature meticulous craft.
His choices, at times, pushed the boundaries. The contrast of baggy pants revealing a different layer underneath, or jackets with protruding shoulders might seem audacious, but they serve to remind us that fashion, at its core, is about pushing the envelope. Despite these bold statements, Do’s intention was clear: a return to the genuine essence of apparel, bypassing the often tumultuous and distracting pageantry associated with major runway shows.
The absence of pop stars, either on the runway or in the audience, drove home this sentiment. No gimmicks, no extravagant sets, no elaborate lighting; merely the clothes casting their spell.
Read more: Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Peter Do
