As the world grapples with geopolitical dangers and the looming climate crisis, Yohji Yamamoto‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection provides a sartorial balm for troubled times. Drawing inspiration from his renewed study of Buddhism, the Japanese designer presented a lineup of light, loose-fitting garments that felt as comfortable and comforting as sleepwear.
Eschewing linings in favor of breathable fabrics like silk and rayon, Yamamoto crafted long layers that draped effortlessly on the body. Frock coats featured uneven tails and adjustable button fastenings, while roomy three-quarter-length trousers swooshed down the runway. Knits were long, sheer, and delightfully droopy, some adorned with intentional holes and ladders that added to their laid-back charm.
The collection’s lighthearted spirit was evident in the playful details scattered throughout. Long, fluid black coats were punctuated with torn-out holes and colorful flower or planet designs, while short white trousers showcased scribble prints and doodles around the knees. Uplifting phrases from Buddhist texts and sayings like “You are the sunshine of my life” adorned select pieces, offering glimmers of positivity amidst the somber hues.
A surprise appearance by actress Charlotte Rampling, a longtime friend of Yamamoto, added to the show’s allure. The 76-year-old icon exuded androgynous insouciance in oversized windowpane check pants held up by suspenders, a simple top, and tennis shoes. Her finale look – a white shirt with an uneven hem and a sketch of her likeness drawn by Yamamoto himself – epitomized the collection’s artful nonchalance.
Despite the absence of defined forms, Yamamoto’s silhouettes were far from shapeless. His mastery of construction was evident in the intricate internal stitching that supported each garment’s structure, a testament to his unrelenting pursuit of craftsmanship and innovation. As one staffer noted, “He likes to challenge himself, he likes to learn.”
For devotees like Rampling, who has cherished her Yamamoto pieces for years, the enduring appeal lies in their inimitable quality. “You can’t find [them] anywhere, that’s what I’m drawn to,” she explained. This sentiment resonates with a transgenerational fanbase that spans from septuagenarian contemporary artist Not Vital to music stars Maluma and Rich the Kid, all of whom appreciate Yamamoto’s perpetually avant-garde vision.
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©Photo: Yohji Yamamoto
