Walter Chiapponi is leaving Blumarine after designing just one collection. The designer, who was appointed Creative director in November, showed his first and only collection for Blumarine during Milan Fashion Week last month. In a statement, Marco Marchi, the sole administrator of parent company Eccellenze Italiane Holding, thanked Chiapponi for his “vision and commitment” in announcing his departure.
Chiapponi, who began his career at Blumarine alongside founder Anna Molinari, described his short tenure as “a sort of return to the future, to which I dedicated all my love and creative passion.” He thanked Marchi for the opportunity and all those who supported him in expressing his creativity. The designer also mentioned his desire to focus on new initiatives and projects with a social and humanitarian scope, before possibly returning to the catwalk at a later date.
Although no specific reasons were given for Chiapponi’s departure, the designer has been open about the personal struggles he faced in 2023, which he described as a “horrible year.” In a January Instagram post, Chiapponi shared the heartbreaking loss of his nephew Noah, whom he called “the joy of my life,” as well as the passing of Davide Renne, Moschino’s former Creative director, and Cleonice, “a Weimaraner I loved for 12 years.”
After leaving Tod’s in September, where he had been creative director since October 2019, Chiapponi embarked on a transformative journey to Uganda with the To Get There association.
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Founded by Piero Piazzi, ambassador for Children for Peace and president of the modeling agency Women Management Milan, and fashion consultant Massimo Leonardelli, the organization helps people and children in need in Uganda and Sudan. The experience seems to have given Chiapponi a sense of purpose and comfort during a difficult time.
In his only collection for Blumarine, Chiapponi aimed to shift the brand’s aesthetic from the Y2K style championed by his predecessor, Nicola Brognano, back to the romantic ethos of founder Anna Molinari. He incorporated Molinari’s signature roses as patterns on ethereal dresses, pajama sets and technical outerwear, while also introducing 10 menswear looks.
Acknowledging the significance of Chiapponi’s contribution, Marchi said, “This is an experience that will remain singular at a special moment in Blumarine’s history. I am grateful to Walter Chiapponi for pouring so much of himself in this collection. It has been an extraordinary adventure and I wish Walter all the best for the continuation of his journey.”
A graduate of the European Institute of Design, Chiapponi began his career in the late 1990s working with Alessandro Dell’Acqua. He went on to collaborate with renowned fashion houses such as Givenchy, Valentino, Gucci, Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta, where he worked with then-Creative director Tomas Maier. In October 2019, Chiapponi joined Tod’s, taking the helm of both the women’s and men’s collections. His debut collection for the brand was unveiled for the Fall/Winter 2020 season.
He succeeded Nicola Brognano, who parted ways with Blumarine last October after four years.
Read more: Walter Chiapponi takes the helm at Blumarine as new Creative director