Viktor & Rolf‘s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection was a whimsical departure from the somber mood that dominated the previous season. This time, the Dutch design duo, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, took inspiration from their own past, revisiting the playful absurdity of their 1998 “Atomic Bomb” collection.
The runway transformed into a laboratory of experimentation, showcasing garments constructed from geometric shapes – rectangles, triangles, spheres, and trapezoids. Think a boxy fuchsia dress resembling a soft cocoon, a miniskirt suit with shoulders suspended from a sharp trapezoid, and a multicolored coat resembling a chaotic stack of 3D squares.
This playful absurdity wasn’t just visual. The soundtrack, featuring human voices uttering nonsensical syllables, mirrored the collection’s theme. Was it a commentary on the meaningless chatter we encounter daily? Perhaps. Viktor & Rolf, ever the enigmas, remained silent, leaving the interpretation open-ended.
Yet, beneath the surface absurdity lay remarkable craftsmanship. The designers employed duchess satin, jacquards, and silks to create intricate structures that supported the outlandish shapes. Crinoline-like structures formed the foundation for these avant-garde creations.
This exploration of abstraction wasn’t merely an exercise in whimsy. It was a liberation for both designer and audience. “What we like about being abstract is that it gives freedom to the audience, to us,” said Rolf Snoeren. In a season dominated by conservative silhouettes, Viktor & Rolf’s kaleidoscopic display of color and form offered a refreshing breath of air.
Read more: Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Viktor & Rolf
