Ulla Johnson, a New York fashion stalwart celebrated for her masterful use of color, found a kindred spirit in the late artist Lee Krasner. For her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Johnson secured a rare collaboration with the Krasner estate, drawing inspiration from the artist’s bold, abstract expressionist works. The result is a vibrant testament to Johnson’s own artistic vision and a tribute to Krasner’s enduring legacy.
Johnson, who shares Krasner’s New York roots and immigrant heritage, was drawn to the painter’s affinity for nature and her desire for her work to “breathe and live.’’ This resonated deeply with Johnson’s design philosophy, which emphasizes pieces that transcend mere garments to become integral parts of the wearer’s identity. This symbiotic relationship between art and wearer was further emphasized by Mary Gabriel, author of “Ninth Street Women,” who noted that through Johnson’s designs, “Lee Krasner is no longer something we look at, it’s something we live in.’’
Krasner’s vibrant prints, including works such as “Comet,” “Portrait in Green,” and “Palingenesis,” were meticulously translated into a series of Johnson’s signature silhouettes. From breezy cotton separates to elegant midi dresses, the collection showcased the versatility of both the artist’s work and the designer’s aesthetic. Johnson’s commitment to craftsmanship was evident in intricate details such as shredded yarn sets and a stunning black evening gown embellished with cascading gold beaded fringe. These pieces sat alongside more utilitarian offerings such as two-tone denim, coated canvas jackets and cotton capes reminiscent of vintage military uniforms.
Adding to the collection’s significance was the introduction of menswear, a natural progression for Johnson, who has long blurred the lines between masculine and feminine styles. Male models sported Krasner-printed shirts, oversized tees, and flowing silhouettes originally designed as part of the women’s collection. This move reflects Johnson’s belief that the traditional divide between menswear and womenswear feels increasingly irrelevant, echoing the sentiments of many contemporary designers.
Both Krasner and Johnson, despite their undeniable talent, initially faced challenges in gaining recognition within their respective fields. Krasner, working alongside her husband Jackson Pollock, often found her own artistic contributions overshadowed. Similarly, Johnson, who has built a successful independent fashion house, initially navigated the industry with limited support. However, both women persevered, ultimately achieving the recognition they deserved.
Read more: GmbH Spring/Summer 2025 – Berlin Fashion Week
©Photo: Ulla Johnson
