Two decades ago, amidst the trendy Nolita boutiques, Tory Burch launched her eponymous brand with a quiet gathering of friends and family. Fast forward to 2024, and the scene couldn’t be more different. The Fall/Winter 2024 show, held in the majestic Astor Hall of the New York Public Library, was a star-studded extravaganza, showcasing a brand transformed into an American design force.
This evolution is truly remarkable. From modest beginnings, Burch has built a near $2 billion empire, proving that fashion dreams can indeed become reality (although access to capital certainly helps!). In her own words, her vision is to elevate the everyday to the “sublime,” and this collection embodied that philosophy with playful ruffles and minidresses crafted from, surprisingly, shower caps!
But the Fall/Winter 2024 collection wasn’t just about whimsical surprises. It was a celebration of 20 years and a confident stride into the future. While acknowledging her heritage with subtle nods to past designs, Burch fearlessly explored unconventional materials like sequined fringe, paper leather, and tinsel raffia. This resulted in intriguing textures and outerwear, with even domestic tropes like knee-high stockings and slips becoming chic statements.
The collection showcased Burch’s mastery of form and volume, with lampshade-shaped skirts and sleeveless dresses adding a touch of whimsy. Retro-futuristic elements like compact knit hoodies and ergonomic minaudières brought a contemporary edge, while the iconic Pierce shoe received a modern update as a molded pump.
Tailoring also took center stage, with elevated pieces such as futuristic military jackets and a black hair calf zipper skirt paired with a classic Tory dickey. A raw-edged blanket stripe pantsuit echoed the designer’s iconic Baja hoodie from Spring/Summer 2011, reminding us that heritage thrives on looking back while pushing forward.
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Beyond the celebration of 20 years, the collection whispered of a new, bolder Burch. Gone are the days of people-pleasing tunics and flats; in their place stands a designer willing to experiment, take risks, and explore vulnerability. As Burch herself stated, “I think I’m more apt to explore my vulnerability now than ever before.”
And explore she did! From sequined fringe dresses shaped like lampshades to shower cap-inspired polka-dot taffeta dresses, the collection brimmed with playful experimentation. Even the color palette dared to be different, with vibrant orange and sky blue lampshade skirts contrasting with glossy surfaces and distressed vinyl that promises to crinkle and evolve with wear.
Of course, Burch didn’t abandon her signature practicality entirely. Tailored men’s pants and slender zip-front jackets balanced the whimsical touches. But the essence of the collection lay in its embrace of the oddball, a testament to a designer unafraid to challenge herself and push boundaries.
As Burch concludes, “I feel like in a way, we’re just beginning… I don’t really look back, I look at it as a journey, but I feel like we’re just starting where I want to be.” This Fall/Winter 2024 collection is a powerful declaration of that sentiment, leaving us excited to see where the next chapter of Tory Burch takes us.
Read more: Tory Burch elevates perfumery with Essence of Dreams Layering Oils
©Photo: Tory Burch
