The Sacai Spring-Summer 2026 collection unfolded inside Chitose Abe’s newly opened Paris headquarters on Rue Cassette, a compact setting that brought guests close to the designs and their subtle complexity. The intimate setting recalled the charged energy of the early 2000s Balenciaga shows held in the same venue. Yet, Abe’s message was entirely her own: personal, confident, and deeply rooted in the craft that defines her brand.
Amidst many dramatic debuts and oversized spectacles this season, Abe offered a more focused presentation. Her approach was assured and almost serene. The presentation reaffirmed her position as one of fashion’s true technicians – not by shouting for attention, but by letting the construction speak for itself.
Tailoring formed the foundation. Jackets bore visible basting stitches and pockets that were subtly darker than the body of the jacket. Raw edges revealed the internal canvas and padding, transforming evidence of a work in progress into part of the design. These details whispered authenticity rather than polish, suggesting that beauty can lie in the process as much as the finished product.
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Abe’s experimentation appeared as calm audacity. Denim and army drill fabric were transformed into capes by lifting the skirts to the shoulders. White T-shirts were paired with duchesse silk and chiffon trains. Historical elements, such as panniers and bustles, emerged through a contemporary lens. Rather than nostalgia, the effect was pragmatic romance – a designer’s instinct to reshape familiar codes without erasing their origin.
Leather moto jackets were transformed into patchwork coats with reimagined quilted inner linings. Simple cotton singlets gained sophistication with inserted plissé panels. Even the humble sweatshirt bore architectural touches that made it unmistakably Sacai. Each piece demonstrated Abe’s mastery of technique, a skill honed over decades yet still seeking new forms of expression.
The show’s atmosphere felt personal. Trinket trays in the invitations hinted at an upcoming collaboration with Smythson, linking everyday life with design through a small gesture. Friends and longtime supporters, including Pharrell Williams and Helen Lasichanh, filled the front row, reinforcing the sense of community surrounding the brand. Afterward, Abe described the collection as “undeniably Sacai,” built from her confidence in her work and her team’s shared belief in their craft.
That faith in continuity was visible on the runway. Naomi Campbell appeared in a pleated chiffon and suiting hybrid that captured the collection’s dual spirit of grace and strength. The garments celebrated structure yet allowed softness, revealing precision while speaking of comfort. Abe seemed to remind her audience that fashion’s power endures not through novelty, but through conviction.
